Carnaval

2 Stars
Loose
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
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A series of grooves finishing up the left side of the prominent diagonal overhang near the cliff top. Start at a left-slanting crack under the fall-line from the great roof. There is some loose rock near the top, care required if there are teams below. Some of the bolts are spaced - a few wires might help to plug the gaps.
1) 6a, 40m. Climb the crack and corner to a flake. Up this, and the wall above, to the upper of two ledges.
2) 6a+, 30m. Climb the wall then trend right into a crusty corner. Climb this and the continuation crack then trend left to a ledge - complete with loose blocks.
3) 5+, 40m. Up a short groove to a flake then move right into the main corner. Up this to the roof then step left to a stance.
4) 5+, 40m. An awkward chimney leads to a large ledge above which a diagonal corner heads for the summit.
FA. Juan Carrillo Olmos, Miguel Garcia Gallego 1971

USER COMMENTS

Be careful of loose rock on the top pitches, I was hit by loose rock while I was belaying my mate on the top pitch. Two spanish climbers called up the helicopter and i was got to hospital quickly otherwise I would have lost my life.I would dearly like to find and thank them, this happened on april 30.
Pete Bailey - 18/Jun/04

Indeed - the top pitch is rather loose and a bit run-out in places, so check everything before you pull or stand on it. A great line with some stunning positions; the diedre on pitch 3 is particularly impressive. Superb day out. Glad to hear the chap above was OK - the only thing I almost got hit by was a lump of ice - there was two feet of snow on the top!
Gav McGrath - 08/Mar/05

Great route, sustained technical climbing on a great line. Agree about the loose blocks but there is plenty of solid stuff around to avoid pulling on suspect blocks. The best route of our trip. (PS take some wires)
Chris Wilson - 01/Feb/09

A really great route, sustained at hard 5+ all the way. Best pitch is third, keeps you alert all the time. The top two pitches are really more groves than chimneys, mostly stemming with a bit of shoulder work. Keeps you guessing right to the top. I used two friends a No. 2 and three plus a medium rock, mostly about three feet below the spaced bolts, if only because I was carrying them.
The second pitch is a bit of a disappointment as it is over so soon. Actually more logical to A0 to keep standard at 5+/6a all the way. I would not call the route loose, no more than any limestone crack line. Just remember not to pull out, but push or pull down. My partner did dislodge a small stone with his foot that bounded across the talus. So start early and wear a helmet if anyone above on the walk in/out.
william Oliver Hill - 23/Mar/10

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