Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
A series of grooves finishing up the left side of the prominent diagonal overhang near the cliff top. Start at a left-slanting crack under the fall-line from the great roof. There is some loose rock near the top, care required if there are teams below. Some of the bolts are spaced - a few wires might help to plug the gaps.</br>1) 6a, 40m. Climb the crack and corner to a flake. Up this, and the wall above, to the upper of two ledges.</br>2) 6a+, 30m. Climb the wall then trend right into a crusty corner. Climb this and the continuation crack then trend left to a ledge - complete with loose blocks.</br>3) 5+, 40m. Up a short groove to a flake then move right into the main corner. Up this to the roof then step left to a stance.</br>4) 5+, 40m. An awkward chimney leads to a large ledge above which a diagonal corner heads for the summit.
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Be careful of loose rock on the top pitches, I was hit by loose rock while I was belaying my mate on the top pitch. Two spanish climbers called up the helicopter and i was got to hospital quickly otherwise I would have lost my life.I would dearly like to find and thank them, this happened on april 30.
Indeed - the top pitch is rather loose and a bit run-out in places, so check everything before you pull or stand on it. A great line with some stunning positions; the diedre on pitch 3 is particularly impressive. Superb day out. Glad to hear the chap above was OK - the only thing I almost got hit by was a lump of ice - there was two feet of snow on the top!
Great route, sustained technical climbing on a great line. Agree about the loose blocks but there is plenty of solid stuff around to avoid pulling on suspect blocks. The best route of our trip. (PS take some wires)
A really great route, sustained at hard 5+ all the way. Best pitch is third, keeps you alert all the time. The top two pitches are really more groves than chimneys, mostly stemming with a bit of shoulder work. Keeps you guessing right to the top. I used two friends a No. 2 and three plus a medium rock, mostly about three feet below the spaced bolts, if only because I was carrying them.
Brilliant route. First pitch is really good. Exposure is great, the wall is more or less vertical.
A great route and a big day out. Bolting starts off generous but after pitch 2 gets meaner and a lot more spaced. Crux wall at start of pitch 2 is well protected but tough - expect 6b or more. Some loose rock and green-coloured bird muck to spice things up! Walking descent easy-ish but involves a short fixed-rope traverse at one point and complex route finding through rocky terrain to retrieve sacks from base of climb. Cairned, but difficult to follow in failing light at end of day.