Left-hand Red Bolts

Fluttery
 5a

Adjacent Routes
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Right of the red corner a thin crack leads to a ledge, the bolts are spaced, a few wires might help. Finish up the short steep wall behind.

USER COMMENTS

Steep start and though juggy, poorly protected with several prospects of crater falls, without wires. Don't do as a first 5!
Duncan Martin - 30/Apr/05

The moves are ok but the bolts are old, runout, and terribly placed. The route is harder than 5 but if rebolted would be better. It feels more like a wandering trad route. Plus, after the first 15m, there is a ledge that is about 4m wide which leads down to a cave. Dont fall in there! This part is not protected (no bolts) and leads to significant rope drag. There is a bad belay here, on the back wall above the cave entrance but it consists of some old ropes with a few figure-8s on a bight. However, there are no rings or carabiners, so if you use these as a rappel or lower off point, you need to leave some gear (carabiners).

Also the anchors at the top consist of slings tied around rocks, attached to one ring. Additionally, from this point to the ground is about 35m, so you cant get down with a 60m rope. Two rappels is best but its a mess. Skip this route (and the one to the right which shares these terrible anchors), the routes on the main slab are much better all around.
Richard - 15/Nov/10

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