Route 1

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Hurricane < Typhoon  |  The Shylock Finish > Blue Velvet >>


16m. Another classic. Start up the outer arete of the buttress and mantel awkwardly onto a ledge. Step left and make a second mantel over a bulge onto a sloping shelf, then step right and mantel past an undercut crack. Finish easily out to the right.
FA. Albert Shutt 1949

USER COMMENTS

Still under-graded
Colin - 14/Jul/03

3 well protected 4c moves, one of which is top end. What's undergraded about VS 4c?
David Jones - 14/Jul/03

I thought the mantels were easy 4c, 4a, and 4b. All well-protected, maybe HS 4c overall.
Simon Caldwell - 21/Jul/03

simon you 2nd' it ! I think VS 4c is correct (i thnk the implication is it used to be undergraded) and the crux is the last, ie i agree with the desc.
rob stone - 21/Jul/03

Hard Severe and lots of it. Good gear and a lot of good rests between the tricky bits. What's VS about it?
Duncan Irving - 18/May/04

Oodles of gear, and the difficulties, such as they were, were all over in the blink of an eye. Good fun, with excellent positions, but three stars is not justified. HS 4c, one (well-deserved) star. Left me wishing I'd done the Shylock Finish.
Ché Gananrelli - 10/Aug/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 80
    hard HVS 0 of 28
    HVS 0 of 28
    easy HVS 1 of 28
    hard VS 6 of 28
    VS 14 of 28
    easy VS 5 of 28
    hard HS 2 of 28
    HS 0 of 28
    easy HS 0 of 28
    hard 5a 0 of 27
    5a 0 of 27
    easy 5a 2 of 27
    hard 4c 11 of 27
    4c 10 of 27
    easy 4c 3 of 27
    hard 4b 1 of 27
    4b 0 of 27
    easy 4b 0 of 27
    3 Stars 12 of 25
    2 Stars 6 of 25
    1 Star 7 of 25
    0 Stars 0 of 25
    Bag of ..... 0 of 25

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