Strapadictomy Top 50

3 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
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9m. Hard work but with a well protected crux and low in the grade. Climb the short arete then lean out and layback onto the flake; about face, and finish briskly.
FA. John Allen 1976


Don't remember a 6b move on this at all. The flake is strenuous but 'only' 6a.
Dave C - 12/Jan/05

I agree with Dave, if it's 6b it's either E4 or E6 if it's 6a it's E4.
sloper - 18/Jan/05

a classic route. Well protected but very strenuous and I personally thought it was 6b
dave - 03/May/05

E5 6a always was always will be
Matt - 18/May/05

E5,6a for sure. Technically its not that bad, you just need to spend a little bit of time using your feet and thinking your way up it..
Goi Ashmore - 18/Sep/06

I thought 6b, although admitedly don't have a lot of experience at flashing this grade. I'm quite short though and could only get two fingers on the bottom of the flake from the side-pull, so maybe the discrepancy in opinions in the grade is an arm span thing.
andy reeve - 01/Apr/07

Shorter arms are better for this to be honest. The trick is to drop down into the crack, not crank up
Goi Ashmore - 19/Oct/07

How can short arms possibly be better?
BIRKBY - 14/Jun/08

E4 6b in my opinion. excellent moves and not over till yourt on top.
luke - 19/Oct/08

aaaa i fell off at the final move :(
Dave - 19/Jul/09

woooo! i did it today, awesome route
Dave - 23/Jul/09

For me the best "safe" Gritstone route I've ever done. Great fun, cant imagine any better. I personally vote for E5 6a, quiet similar like Bat out of hell.
Urs Odermatt - 02/Jun/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 87
    hard E6 0 of 30
    E6 0 of 30
    easy E6 1 of 30
    hard E5 0 of 30
    E5 7 of 30
    easy E5 18 of 30
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    easy 6c 1 of 30
    hard 6b 0 of 30
    6b 13 of 30
    easy 6b 5 of 30
    hard 6a 10 of 30
    6a 1 of 30
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    3 Stars 26 of 27
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