Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 140
The reachy left arete of the smart slab, with gear in the low break. Hard for the short. A fair intro to harder gritstone aretes.
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Reasonable at the grade, and thankfully not at all reachy. Worth it's star - a one move-wonder but an elegant one move at that. Better line than Benign!
agree with you but why does the pic on the right claim e4!!!!
It gets E4 in the Froggatt guide.
Probably E4 if there was no gear!?
It's all over in a few seconds but what a few seconds! I think this is reach dependant (it wasn't just one move for me!). I found it hard and technical and I don't think the gear is high enough to catch you if you blow the moves to the good holds.
When I did this in the 80s it was graded HVS 4c!!! (I think this was a legacy of Bancroft's Recent Developments) and thinking it felt a little tricky at the grade I found you can place a runner to protect the crux in the diagonal flake (visible in the photo of Luisa onsighting) just to the left of RH Crack. This makes it about E1 5c and you can get it in without going off route or touching (with your hands) any rock off route. Useful to know if you get scared.
The gear will hold you off the ground on the final reach for the flake.
i soloed it,felt about e2.
I campused it and it felt like S 3a!!
You must've lost a lot of skin.
I tested the gear & ended up swinging gently to & fro, upside down, about a foot above the ground. A fine sequence of balancey moves, once worked out. But I'll be ticking it in the definitive.
Long reach is a definate advantage. My first E3 onsight, but I have to admit it only felt like E2 5b.
a fun climb. quite thin, technical sequence but 'think you are further from falling off then what it feels like'. Shame about the close proximity of the stuff on the lerft otherwise 2*. Didn't climb this as nicely as I'd have liked to and for a horrible moment i thought i was going to have to slap for the flake. Fortunately sorted right foot out though and got there under control.
Downgrade to E3 correct. Trickier for the short, but prob still E3. Lovely route.
Is it a route??? yes its a nice problem , shame that it's not longer. grade bout right E3 5b i recon.
I'd say being tall was a disadvantage as you miss out on a brilliant move up to the flake. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to hit the deck from a fall at the crux. Cheers Dr. Hoey
E2 i think, compare it to great slab. A bit short. gear would be ok i think