Parallel Piped

1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Left Flake-crack < Right Flake-crack  |  Benign Lives > Mild >>


6m. The reachy left arete, with gear in the low break. Harder for the short. A good introduction to harder gritstone arete climbing.
FA. Graham Hoey 1986

USER COMMENTS

Reasonable at the grade, and thankfully not at all reachy. Worth it's star - a one move-wonder but an elegant one move at that. Better line than Benign!
Fiend - 16/Oct/03

agree with you but why does the pic on the right claim e4!!!!
andy - 17/Oct/03

It gets E4 in the Froggatt guide.
DaveF - 18/Oct/03

Probably E4 if there was no gear!?
Birkby - 10/Nov/03

It's all over in a few seconds but what a few seconds! I think this is reach dependant (it wasn't just one move for me!). I found it hard and technical and I don't think the gear is high enough to catch you if you blow the moves to the good holds.
DaveF - 01/Dec/03

When I did this in the 80s it was graded HVS 4c!!! (I think this was a legacy of Bancroft's Recent Developments) and thinking it felt a little tricky at the grade I found you can place a runner to protect the crux in the diagonal flake (visible in the photo of Luisa onsighting) just to the left of RH Crack. This makes it about E1 5c and you can get it in without going off route or touching (with your hands) any rock off route. Useful to know if you get scared.
Mike Hood - 01/Feb/04

The gear will hold you off the ground on the final reach for the flake.
Tom Gilbert - 16/Feb/04

i soloed it,felt about e2.
mark - 16/Feb/04

I campused it and it felt like S 3a!!
Grit Gob - 11/Mar/04

You must've lost a lot of skin.
Tom Gilbert - 30/Apr/04

I tested the gear & ended up swinging gently to & fro, upside down, about a foot above the ground. A fine sequence of balancey moves, once worked out. But I'll be ticking it in the definitive.
Andy Clarke - 25/Jan/05

Long reach is a definate advantage. My first E3 onsight, but I have to admit it only felt like E2 5b.
Chris the Tall - 15/May/05

a fun climb. quite thin, technical sequence but 'think you are further from falling off then what it feels like'. Shame about the close proximity of the stuff on the lerft otherwise 2*. Didn't climb this as nicely as I'd have liked to and for a horrible moment i thought i was going to have to slap for the flake. Fortunately sorted right foot out though and got there under control.
Steve Ramsden - 12/Nov/05

Downgrade to E3 correct. Trickier for the short, but prob still E3. Lovely route.
match - 20/Feb/06

Is it a route??? yes its a nice problem , shame that it's not longer. grade bout right E3 5b i recon.
ioan - 05/May/06

I'd say being tall was a disadvantage as you miss out on a brilliant move up to the flake. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to hit the deck from a fall at the crux. Cheers Dr. Hoey
Sam Doyle - 21/Aug/06

E2 i think, compare it to great slab. A bit short. gear would be ok i think
luke - 28/Nov/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 140
    hard E4 0 of 48
    E4 0 of 48
    easy E4 3 of 48
    hard E3 0 of 48
    E3 21 of 48
    easy E3 11 of 48
    hard E2 13 of 48
    E2 0 of 48
    easy E2 0 of 48
    hard 6a 0 of 48
    6a 0 of 48
    easy 6a 0 of 48
    hard 5c 1 of 48
    5c 32 of 48
    easy 5c 12 of 48
    hard 5b 3 of 48
    5b 0 of 48
    easy 5b 0 of 48
    3 Stars 0 of 44
    2 Stars 13 of 44
    1 Star 30 of 44
    0 Stars 1 of 44
    Bag of ..... 0 of 44

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.