The Shylock Finish

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Typhoon < Route 1  |  Blue Velvet > Claw Climb >>

From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always being careful not to lose a pound of flesh. Wild!
FA. Stuart Gascoyne 1981


Much harder than the rest of the route, but an entertaining way to finish off in a spectaculator position. Pumpy!
Nick Smith - 18/Apr/03

Much easier if you're tall enough to reach the foot hold out on the left without leaving the ledge! For an easier but still exciting alternative, pull up and use the top break for the traverse.
Simon Caldwell - 21/Jul/03

Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you end up standing on the lip curly plate things head first into the jaws?
DuzWalker - 14/Jun/07

In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit after all) onto lower antler. Then like you expected with my head in the lions jaws I repositioned the jams and lifted left foot onto antler and stood up. LH Antler sounds a bit suspect by the way.
Jim Croft - 10/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 27
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    easy HVS 2 of 9
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