North ClimbRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 70
Adjacent Routes
12m. The wide crack was a good effort for its day. Awkward and not too well protected, though a big chockstone is of some help. USER COMMENTS
Horrible unprotected offwidth. Harder than Sunset Crack
Not that bad really and there is protection on the route as well without using giant cams
I did this yesterday and thought it was quite nice after a tough start. Stay on it rather than in it! The chockstone at mid height provides a crucial runner.
An exposed crack but you can cheat and climb the slab.
Considerably easier than Sunset Crack, though the start is tough. I found it a lot easier to stick in it. It also then makes it a lot harder to fall out of. Definitely overgraded at S. Seems more like traditional VD/ HVD to me.
I've seen a VDiff leader run up this with just a sling round the chockstone at half height. The jamming at the start to get established on the slab is the crux, after that climb the left arete of the crack. seconded it barefoot!
My first ever lead on my first day climbing outside. The start was relatively easy but struggled a bit higher up and made it look a bit messy, nice first lead though as there are places to stoop and sort out your gear.
Might be Severe if you climb the slab but I stayed jammed in the crack and it's only HVD. Nice climb.
Ugh - horrible, I came to this after 3 VS leads and bottled out half way up. Big boots to go in the crack would probably help, as well as completing the tweed ensemble.
Opinions on this really differ, don't they! HVD seems about right for it but I'd say for the less experienced (like me) it's harder than it looks, is much more 'thuggish' than the crack and requires a different technique.
The chockstone is definately there, and its the only decent protection on the whole route. I found it a hard physical route, and IMO the climbing harder is than S4A, very thuggish throughout
Only traditional VDiff once you're past the start, which is pretty tough provided you don't cheat and slink around to the left. There's only really one hard move low down, and it's not nearly as bad as many VDiff chimneys out there.
Did this one in the rain which made it quite scary. Vital chock, the top seemed completly unprotected without massive gear but managed to get a tiny splitter cam out left in a pocket on an extended QD, probably wouldn't have bothered in the dry. There's a fun jumping mantle shelf at the bottom. |