North Climb

1 Stars
 HVD 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mild < Science Friction  |  What's up Doc? > Sundowner >>


12m. The wide crack was a good effort for its day. Awkward and not too well protected, though a big chockstone is of some help.
FA. J.W.Puttrell 1906

USER COMMENTS

Horrible unprotected offwidth. Harder than Sunset Crack
Dave - 16/Jul/02

Not that bad really and there is protection on the route as well without using giant cams
MattG - 16/Aug/02

I did this yesterday and thought it was quite nice after a tough start. Stay on it rather than in it! The chockstone at mid height provides a crucial runner.
Helen - 27/Oct/02

An exposed crack but you can cheat and climb the slab.
Chris K - 04/Mar/03

Considerably easier than Sunset Crack, though the start is tough. I found it a lot easier to stick in it. It also then makes it a lot harder to fall out of. Definitely overgraded at S. Seems more like traditional VD/ HVD to me.
D Berry - 16/May/03

I've seen a VDiff leader run up this with just a sling round the chockstone at half height. The jamming at the start to get established on the slab is the crux, after that climb the left arete of the crack. seconded it barefoot!
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

My first ever lead on my first day climbing outside. The start was relatively easy but struggled a bit higher up and made it look a bit messy, nice first lead though as there are places to stoop and sort out your gear.
Mark Readman - 24/Jun/03

Might be Severe if you climb the slab but I stayed jammed in the crack and it's only HVD. Nice climb.
Jonathan Tompkins - 26/Apr/04

Ugh - horrible, I came to this after 3 VS leads and bottled out half way up. Big boots to go in the crack would probably help, as well as completing the tweed ensemble.
Stephen Bolsover - 06/Jun/05

Opinions on this really differ, don't they! HVD seems about right for it but I'd say for the less experienced (like me) it's harder than it looks, is much more 'thuggish' than the crack and requires a different technique.
Diane - 21/Aug/05

The chockstone is definately there, and its the only decent protection on the whole route. I found it a hard physical route, and IMO the climbing harder is than S4A, very thuggish throughout
Big Steve - 19/Feb/06

Only traditional VDiff once you're past the start, which is pretty tough provided you don't cheat and slink around to the left. There's only really one hard move low down, and it's not nearly as bad as many VDiff chimneys out there.
Victim of Mathematics - 20/Feb/06

Did this one in the rain which made it quite scary. Vital chock, the top seemed completly unprotected without massive gear but managed to get a tiny splitter cam out left in a pocket on an extended QD, probably wouldn't have bothered in the dry. There's a fun jumping mantle shelf at the bottom.
munky - 31/Aug/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 70
    hard0 of 7
    0 of 7
    easy5 of 7
    hard HVD 0 of 7
    HVD 1 of 7
    easy HVD 1 of 7
    hard VD 0 of 7
    VD 0 of 7
    easy VD 0 of 7
    hard 4b 0 of 32
    4b 0 of 32
    easy 4b 2 of 32
    hard 4a 5 of 32
    4a 7 of 32
    easy 4a 11 of 32
    hard 3c 7 of 32
    3c 0 of 32
    easy 3c 0 of 32
    3 Stars 0 of 31
    2 Stars 2 of 31
    1 Star 23 of 31
    0 Stars 3 of 31
    Bag of ..... 3 of 31

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