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A neglected route up the centre of the wall with three pitches. With a rebolting and some traffic, it could be a classic. The gear is very old and route-finding awkward.
1) 6b, 32m. Cross the overlap, then climb leftwards to reach a crack that slants to the right through the bulges. Climb this until an awkward pull gains an easy groove leading to a good stance.
2) 6b, 20m. Step right and climb the shallow groove until difficult moves lead up and left to better holds. Continue up and left to a long flake crack that leads to a small stance.
3) 5, 25m. Climb up until forced left into the chimney. After the awkward exit from this, climb to the big tree belay.
Continue to the top (3 ) or abseil off.
FA. E.LÃ³pez 1985
Quite thrutchy and poor gear (including the belay) of rusty bolts, piton & old threads.
Morgan Woods - 14/Dec/05
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