Sunset Slab

3 Stars
Fluttery
 HVS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< What's up Doc? < Sundowner  |  Sunset Crack > Turret Crack >>


14m. The main route of the slab has a contentious grade, used to warn the uninitiated, with a good runner in the right place it would be nearer Hard Severe! It is protectionless except for a poor large Friend which may be of psychological help. From the initial crack, trend left across sloping ledges to a flake and teeter up this. The crux is one move higher than you might expect.
FA. Joe Brown 1948

USER COMMENTS

I managed to get 2 lobes of a black (smallest) Alien in just below the crux. I didn't test it, but better than nothing at all.
GM - 25/Apr/02

The perfect friction slab. Not really worth putting a rope on for though. Belief in your shoes, trust of friction and a good calm head will get you through!
Hindu - 15/Jun/02

Easy really. Careful foot placement makes it feel secure. I wasn't worried at all, despite the runout.
RobS - 27/Aug/02

A great route but no point in a harness- you won't be able to place any gear past the first crack and it will just weigh you down.
D Berry - 17/Oct/02

brill climb well worth doing, it is easier to solo as taking a rope and gear up this unprotected climb is pointless, unless you want to bring someone up.
Ashley - 07/Feb/03

If you liked this (and who wouldn't?) try Symbiosis at Stanage Plantation for slightly(!) harder unprotected padding.
D Berry - 13/Apr/03

quality route, nicely delicate
jus - 19/Apr/03

This is a really fun climb. However, the rain came down as I was climbing, luckily there was a tiny piece of friction left underneath the unprotected crack/flake thing at the top!!! I'd guess it's best tried when cool and dry.
Laurence - 01/Jun/03

Effectively a solo but you might as well place some gear for the hardish moves up to the crack. Take some gear up so you can set up a belay up for less suicidal climbers.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

A very nice route. A calm head is what is required - the route is delicate but easy.
Huw D Jones - 14/Jul/03

great route and well worth 3 stars, it must be one of the best slab routes on grit!
stu - 26/Aug/03

Technical Slab at the Roaches is just as unprotected till 30 or 40 foot and is HS 4b. Seemed more like an HS 4b to me -the feeling of exposure wasn't that great.
leon skeldon - 26/Aug/03

Technical Slab is all on jugs though.
Davep - 26/Aug/03

Nonsense, Technical Slab is now very well protected using Friends.
Simon Caldwell - 27/Aug/03

its a great way to warm-up at froggatt. been doing it for a couple of years now and i rekon the 'blind flake' has been made less blind by the wirebrush maassiiive.
gypsyking - 15/Sep/03

I led this about 12 years ago looking for my first VS lead, The Paul Nunn selected Peak guide told me it was VS; terrible thing this grade inflation
colin s - 06/Oct/03

This is my favouritest route ever!
Birkby - 17/Nov/03

Good route - did it in February and almost fell off from shivering - trust the friction and all will be well. Agree, a nice solo.
J Rushby - 13/Feb/04

Heart ticklingly good!
Paul Winder - 01/Nov/04

This wee beastie had me very psyched-out for a long time. In the end I warmed up by soloing everything around it (at least the non-crazy-hard ones) and then going for it. It felt easy, but so good :-)
Andy Buckley - 13/Dec/04

Soloed this today, very nice.
But has anyone tried to put any gear in? Looking at the flake it looked like it would take a half-decent zero 4 or so to protect the crux.
Si - 19/Feb/05

I'm fairly certin you could protect the crux with a tricam in the far pocket to the left of the crux, I was soloing so I can't be sure
gwilym - 29/Apr/05

Eeek. Seconded this on one visit and spent an afternoon nervously glancing over my shoulder at it on another.
joe - 06/May/05

We managed to get a firmly placed micro cam in at the bottom of the flake way above the crack. So it can be protected!
Melanie - 07/May/05

HVS leaders will find this very easy. It's still an excellent route though, and is much easier than it looks. It's definitely not worth pissing around with micro-cams, if you think you may fall off then this probably isn't the route for you!
Mr Pink 2 - 09/May/05

Not sure about Mr Pink's logic. Why drag ropes and gear around if you're not going to use them? I never think I'm going to fall - but I do several times each year. With gear in the flake, the climb could be downgraded to VS.
john - 12/May/05

My point was that the gear in the flake is almost certainly not going to hold. A steady head is all that is required to make this climb safe.
Mr Pink 2 - 12/May/05

Very easy for HVS - about a Millstone V-Dif?? A Zero 3 goes under the bottom of the flake perfectly for the well heeled cheating type.
Thomas Clitheroe - 26/Jun/05

Did this before TPS and enjoyed it a lot more. Did try fiddling my smallest cam in below the flake but it was too big. Just have to trust your feet.
Craig - 29/Aug/05

Not HVS surely? Ok there's no gear, but you're not very likely to fall off with modern rock shoes. HS/VS
Glen - 17/Mar/06

Did this on Sunday and thought that it was well overgraded - does it only get HVS because of the groundfall potential? I think that it is probably only a HS or VS at a push, and if you can get a small cam in the overlap then it would only be an S!
Gareth Chapman - 10/Jul/06

I was too scared to do this one for years! But everyone is right, the moves are easier than they look and feel really positive. A pleasant climb and probably VS 4b really
Matt1000 - 12/Aug/06

Fun route - all in the head. Pretty pointless taking up gear except for setting up belay at the top.
Andrew Auld - 23/Aug/06

Done this a couple of times now. Love the route and once you commit to the moves they are really easy and more positive than they at first appear.

Although I find it easy must admit if it was graded VS you would be getting a lot of very scared VS leaders on it! Ground fall is the outcome of messin up the top moves so although it's an easy climb it's prolly gotta get HVS though only just!
Cameron Anderson - 10/Apr/07

Great solo! Just tricky enough to make you aware you don't have a rope, easy enough that it doesn't matter. I'm 5'1" and found the crux to be a lot lower than the other people I was with who soloed it.
Julie Mair - 17/May/07

The big pocket mentioned in the description as a likely cam placement will actually take a fairly reasonable Camalot 3 - it takes a bit of playing around, but I've placed worse gear. With this on one rope and a Zero on another - a fall might just be thinkable - would be a fun experiment.

As for the grade: if the last moves are 6a rather than 4b(?) it would be E6, so logically it's E1 - surely? ;-)
Adrian Berry - 05/Aug/07

Er... The big pocket and 6a finale moves up from it are What's Up Doc, not Sunset Slab (though I guess there's no harm is trying to get the gear in the pocket for the final 4b moves)
Pythonist - 10/Aug/07

a number 2 slider fits perfectly in the back of a pocket just before the crux, its bomber so the route is only hs if you have sliders (feels a bit like cheating though)
Michael Watson - 30/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 327
    hard E1 0 of 110
    E1 0 of 110
    easy E1 1 of 110
    hard HVS 0 of 110
    HVS 35 of 110
    easy HVS 44 of 110
    hard VS 30 of 110
    VS 0 of 110
    easy VS 0 of 110
    hard 4c 0 of 109
    4c 0 of 109
    easy 4c 0 of 109
    hard 4b 8 of 109
    4b 84 of 109
    easy 4b 15 of 109
    hard 4a 2 of 109
    4a 0 of 109
    easy 4a 0 of 109
    3 Stars 92 of 108
    2 Stars 10 of 108
    1 Star 4 of 108
    0 Stars 1 of 108
    Bag of ..... 1 of 108

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