Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 216
12m. The awkward undercut crack has enough runners to make up for the rest of the routes on the slab! The initial bulge is the crux and the route has its fair share of sloping holds but it is still pretty amiable as a HS.
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Good route but where is the 4c move on the initial bulge ? (I think you must have missed the easy sequence)
Soloed it. To be honest, was harder than some VSs with the sloping holds - 4c seemed very fair.
I soloed it too. I thought there were a couple of moves on it to be honest. Interesting. Harder than some VSs? Well, there are plenty of HSs out there that qualify for that tag! I think HS is a good grade for this one, lots of protection (well, it looked like it anyway ;-)
If the crux was five metres further up it'd get a VS. In my book this makes no difference except your safer higher up, so worth VS. Nice and also safe climb...
A great route where you can play a silly game, How many nuts can the leader place in the crack 1 set 2 sets?
Done this a few times now, IMHO a good mid-grade HS very protectable and I don't agree with 4c for the move over the bulge, there's pockets and smears aplenty.
I agree with Swirly about the dificulties in overcomming the bulge, but think the initial crack is a lot harder to protect than it looks (and judging by the wear on the first good wire placement at the start of the upper, much easier, section, so do other people too).
Protection os not difficult, and this definitely isn't 4c or VS (only just HS) IMHO. Moves over the initial bulge and at half-height are both maybe 4b but only just.
When seconding this I did the start on jams and smears staying very close to the crack and thought it was about 4c -- but certainly didn't think this was the easiest approach!
No way in this world is there a 4c move anywhere on this crack. My seconder, who was a lead-climbing virgin seriously considered this one as her first candidate. I've been up Diffs that required more technical skills.
Quality route, with crux at start (the best place for them!). Super safe as crack will accept as many wires as you can carry.
Quite easy for the grade I thought, seconded without slipping in hiking boots.
Bit harder for those people with fat fingers (me). Bit slopey in places but more enjoyable for it! Only put two pieces of gear in, pure fun.
Very easy for a VS or a 4c. HS is probably closer. VS is my top end leading grade. It's a lovely climb though.
The bulge is easy, big footholds and good smears, very well protected, and straight of the ground. I reckon easy 4b for anyone looking at their feet. the rest is about vdiff/s with gear anywhere you want it. This should get S 4b. Never 4c and definitely not HS.
I felt that the first move up off the ground was definitely worth 4c, I reckon it's probably easier if you've got the height for it. I recommend not over lacing the start of the crack with gear (like me) because the hand holds start to dissappear very fast if you do! The remainder is a doddle for HS. So a hard HS start combined with an easy top section still gets a HS in my book.
Looking a bit worn from too many practice nut placements.