1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Diedro Botella < V&iacute;a Pany  |  V&iacute;a Valencianos > Direct de UBSA >>

E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is disjointed. Start at a ramp between twin cracks. Carry a small rack.</br>1) 5, 20m. Gain and climb the ramp leading into the right-hand crack and follow this to a stance on the right.</br>1a) 6b, 30m. The long left-hand crack gives a fine beefy pitch.</br>2) 5+, 35m. The long, awkward and wide crack above.</br>3) 5, 20m. The wide continuation now in the main groove.</br>4) 4, 30m. Climb easily up and right to a stance under a tube.</br>5) 6a, 30m. Climb the scoop and crack into the chimney and continue up this to a claustrophobic stance.</br>6) 5, 20m. Continue up the chimney until it opens out.</br>7) 4, 50m. Follow the slab to the ridge. Finish up Valencianos.
FA. J.L.Moreno, Jordi Palas, Santi Llop


Has anyone else had difficulties trying to work out where this route starts?
C.E. Moreton - 02/Mar/05

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