<< Diedro Botella < Vía Pany | Vía Valencianos > Direct de UBSA >>
E1. Tackles the buttress below the ridge of the Valencianos slab. The climbing is good and the tube is unique, but the route is disjointed. Start at a ramp between twin cracks. Carry a small rack.
1) 5, 20m. Gain and climb the ramp leading into the right-hand crack and follow this to a stance on the right.
1a) 6b, 30m. The long left-hand crack gives a fine beefy pitch.
2) 5+, 35m. The long, awkward and wide crack above.
3) 5, 20m. The wide continuation now in the main groove.
4) 4, 30m. Climb easily up and right to a stance under a tube.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb the scoop and crack into the chimney and continue up this to a claustrophobic stance.
6) 5, 20m. Continue up the chimney until it opens out.
7) 4, 50m. Follow the slab to the ridge. Finish up Valencianos.
FA. J.L.Moreno, Jordi Palas, Santi Llop
Has anyone else had difficulties trying to work out where this route starts?
C.E. Moreton - 02/Mar/05
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