Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.</br>1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab.</br>2) 6a, 18m. Climb direct up the slab to a small stance in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos.</br>3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays.</br>4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall (some fixed gear) to the great slab. Climb straight up this to join Valencianos. Either continue up this or make three long abseils.
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One of the scariest routes I've ever climbed. The lower section will fall off one day! The short abseil only adds to the excitement.
A great adventure. Highly recommend it.
A few (all?) of these folks have done DIEDRE UBSA and not Direct de UBSA. The former is not loose and does not include an abseil!!!!
Do you mean the latter, Chris? Direct de UBSA *isn't* loose? (i see it has no abseil) ... is it any good i wonder, has anyone done it, as the line looks terrific.
Well spotted that man!
Direct de UBSA is a fantastic route with the best pitch being the 4th pitch which is a intimidating traverse to regain the main slab.
2nd pitch - agree 6a+
I've now done the route (2/4/2010), and it is a very worthwhile change from Via Valencianos. I agree that the 3rd pitch is more like 6a+, I placed two wires to protect the delicate traverse back in to the crack; the second pitch was no pushover either, tho bolts protected the very thin lower part of it.
Did it last week. Definitely harder compared to Valencianos, but also much more fun. First pitch - 4. Second pitch is absolutely the hardest, 6a+ is probably a bit too much, but definitely not just a "5". Third pitch requires trad gear placement (which is not difficult to find) but climbing itself is a touch easier, 5c-5c+, I'd say. Kevlar threads come in handy on both this one and the next. I didn't feel the fourth one to be that loose or scary, but it's true - there are no bolts until on the slab.
"Hardest" was probably a wrong word as regards the second pitch - technically dificult is more appropriate.