Polvos mágicos

2 Stars
Loose
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Vía Valencianos < Direct de UBSA  |  Sensacion de vivir > Virginia Díez >>


E1. A neat direct version of Valencianos with a great line. Escape onto Valencianos is an option at several points. Take a rack.
1) 3, 35m. Pitch 1 of Valencianos.
2) 6a+, 25m. The long slippery corner has the crux at the top.
3) 5+, 30m. Pitch 3 of Valencianos.
4) 4, 20m. Meander up easy ground to gain the right edge of the upper slab, beneath the steeper headwall. Belay in a recess.
5) 5, 30m. Follow the pleasant corner above to the main ridge.
6) 4, 20m. Climb a groove then move left to easy ground.
7) & 8) 50m. The last two pitches of Valencianos.
FA. Pablo Rosa, Miguel Devesa, Roy de Valera 1960s

USER COMMENTS

Great situation, not the best route ever because it is escapable in places, but the slippy walled thin corner and particularly the last move onto the ledge will get you going.
Bob Hassall - 24/Mar/04

This is a nice alternative to Valencianos. The second pitch has only a couple of moves at 6a+ near the top, but can be avoided by escaping onto Valencianos.
The corner is a nice alternative to the slab, and avoides the polish.
Ewan - 17/Jul/04

Vía fácil, muy lavada, ojo con los patinazos,los diedros finales son para disfrutarlos.
chema - 22/Feb/06

Although not as good as Diedro UBSA and with more fixed eqt than expected, we found it a nice undertaking with interesting climbing on pitch 2 and up the long corner/groove to the ridge (we did pitch 4,5 and 6 as two pitches). Approx. 6 bolts on the crux length, which we chose to supplement with a couple of cams. Due to the popularity of Valencianos (which shares several pitches with P.M) with unexperienced climbers, it is essential to start early if you want to climb without long rests.
are strøm - 18/Apr/06

crux pitch does a great job of sucking you in started of very slabby then slowly gets steaper until the last move to the top is a great relief to reach the ledge. top climb
chris elfleet - 29/Oct/08

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