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3 Stars
Loose
 5+

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HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high up. From here the route escapes leftwards by a spectacular abseil. The route is slightly spoilt by the looseness of the first few pitches. Depending on confidence/ability levels, take a small rack although all the hard sections are geared. Start left of the base of the groove by a large cactus bush.
1) -, 15m. Scramble (loose) to belay left of the base of the groove.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb awkwardly right to the groove, then up to a stance in a chimney.
3) 5, 20m. Continue bridging up the groove to a stance just before a harder section.
4) 5+, 35m. Another pitch up the corner.
5) 4, 30m. Move right onto a slab, then back left and climb up to a three-bolt belay on a jammed block behind the pinnacle.
6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Climb up into the base of the cave and a belay on the left. The groove to the right gives another option. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the cave.
7) 8m down. Look round the left arete to locate some bolts and use these to abseil to a ledge below, swinging slightly left, then move further left to a belay (on Les miserables).
8) 4, 30m. Traverse into the corner and move up to belay.
9) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit.
FA. Luis Riguez, Jose Guerrero, Pedro Oliva 1960s

USER COMMENTS

Did this route last Spring. A great route, with a strong natural line and excellent climbing.
Don't go too far right from the top of the pinnacle, even though there are shiny bolts to draw you, as you'll be on 6b! Go up the rounded wall from the top of the pinnacle.
Chris Heald - 23/Mar/04

Surprisingly varied. It kicks in straight away and never lets up.
Nick Eaton - 24/Mar/04

Brilliant route. We went up the fist crack to the right of the pinnacle rather than the rounded wall, seemed resonable enough
Colonel Cathcart - 29/Mar/04

Class
Simon.A - 13/Apr/04

Great day out... take a fair size rack as there are very few bolts on Pitch 4 which heads up the right hand crack from the belay and a few rusty pegs...
Robert Taylor - 17/May/04

I'd be interested to know how long this route took people. I'm planning to climb it in October this year. I'm hoping that 11 hours of daylight will be enough! :)

Cheers
mdwoolley - 01/Sep/04

I do this route today,really good.Attention in the 7)if you climb on the right it is IV+,if you climb straight ahead it could be 6a.
nice day,enjoy it.
rafeta - 02/Oct/04

Great route with a strong natural line (give or take the slightly weird abseiling palaver), and an adventurous feel. Much of the in-situ gear is ageing. No looser than most mountain routes. The rock type felt a little bit Gogarth-y to me...anyone know what I'm on about?
Dan Bailey - 19/Oct/04

Climbed it on Sunday 24th October! *all* of the pitches are really enjoyable though for some reason pitches 2 and 3 really stick in my mind for pure climbing pleasure. The abseil is a tad necky and the ledge you ab down to is a mere pale immitation of a ledge! I thought the traverse felt exposed and under-graded technically, but maybe that's just me. The final pitch has an overhang with a diagonally sloping tunnel up through it. All well and good unless you're wearing a rucksack like me, which means you cannot fit and have to climb over the thing (upping the grade for that pitch imho). Either way, a truly awesome expedition. It took us between 8 and 9 hours wiht a decent break behind the pinnacle and in the cave.
mdwoolley - 29/Oct/04

Easiest line up the majestic south face of the Peñon (I don't reckon Valencianos to the south face routes). If you bring a single rope, you can combine pitch 1 + 2, 4 + 5 and 6 + 7 + 8. The direct 6a variation of pitch 6 is nice and recommended if you link 6, 7 and 8 together. I thought pitches 9 and 10 deserve 5- and 5 grading respectively.
Pitch 4 is hardest to protect. There is quite a lot of in situ gear throughout the route, but much of it is rusty. Take some small friends (camalot .4 or so) and large size friends/hexes.
madgup - 29/Nov/04

A fantastic route through some very impressive terrain. Wow, the abseil and pendulum!
Paul Winder - 05/Dec/04

Use the portaloo at the end of the quay before you start, you'll need it! Advise using a prussuk on the absail, it's a bit of a swing left to gain the bolts. Stay low on the traverse after the absail, it's easier. One of the best rock climbs I've done.
Rob Webb - 16/Jan/05

Spectacular route in an beautiful setting. It has a mountain aspect ,and has a lot of "antique" equipement. We were suprised that the route was following an obvious dihedral for the first 5 pitchesin spite of the name? Many great pitches and ,and generally good belays. Climb the route with "good margins" on the grade, because of the in-situ equipement,and pro-possiblilities.
A fantastic climb,with more climbing than expected all the way.
geirellingden - 19/Mar/05

Just arrived back from Spain to-day, and got fired because of it! but that's not important right now. We did this route in just under 7.5 hours. I recommend you stay in the borner on the third pitch, I drifted out left following the line of bolts and found myself on the tail-end of a 7a! The Abseil need not be as you can easily lower your partner and vice-versa, I'm sure this saved a lot of time. All in all a tremendous route
Rob - 21/Mar/05

Superb route, amazing views and great climbing.

Watch out on pitch 3 or 4 for the line of shiny new bolts (as Rob mentioned above), I foolishly followed them rather than sticking towards the right hand face (where there isn't really much fixed gear at all). This bolt line starts off deceptively easy, but after a few bolts it gets very hard.
Kyuzo - 09/Apr/05

Where does the 6a variation on pitch 6 go? straight up some bulges and right next to the small cave?
Oli - 12/Apr/05

Thought pitch 6 was the crux. A well protected move above the pinnacle but then some neckier climbing moving right into the corner. The last balancy move into the chimney felt quite hard and not well protected.
Despite first appearances the last 2 pitches are excellent, maintain the standard and are full of surprises! Take a full rack and enjoy a great classic.
brianrunner - 16/Apr/05

Man, the topo on the Rockfax book was very misleading. In this particular route I would have preferred a drawing than a picture. The route is great though.
ramon marin martinez - 08/Jun/05

Did the route 10th July - fabulous! On the Ab(Pitch 8) leader was lowered off and then clipped belay and then the second was lowered off to the bolts, before un-tying and pulling the rope through. Forget the idea of ab-ing or unnecessary undoing of ropes at that height! Five hours from Car Park to the top and Sun was off the face until about 1300hrs
Mike - 11/Jul/05

Couple of minor corrections to the topos: after pitch six, belay is in the gully leading to the huge cave, not next to the small hole as shown in old topo; topo in new book shows wrong number of stances for first six pitches. Both topos show misleading info for the penultimate pitch (possibly due to perspective of photo): pitch nine is about 8m traversing, then about 12m upwards, belay is behind a large bush/tree.

Near the start of the walk-in path, there's a poster showing the most popular routes, including the positions of the belays; this is by far the most accurate topo I've seen for this route.

Top quality route though, and at a grade most will be comfortable with.
Will Benfold - 12/Jan/06

sorry to go against the flow here but has everyone gone mad.couple of points, do you like thrutching up loose corners using more brawn than style?. do you like scratching your head trying to work out what the hell the guide book means? do you like climbing on smooth soapstone type rock? are you climbing above 5+ (would be a realy good idea)I so have a great day, this route is spectacular from the ground and does put you in some good locations but in my opinion this doesn't make up for the style of climbing needed to get up it. If you just want to get to the top go for via valencianos
chris elfleet - 15/Oct/06

Did this route 5. dec 08.
It is a fanatic route that has almost everything, but the Rockfax guide for this route needs an uptade.
5. the pich ends in a stance on top of the jammed block
6. the pich ends in a stance that is in the left side of the cave(bottom). This is easy to see as move into the cave.
7. The ancor for the rappell is just outside the cave from the 6th stance. As you look outside you will see twin bolts down to the left(you will use them later). Rappell down, and slightly to the left onto a ledge. As you move along the ledge twin bolts will reval itself(not visible as you start the rappell). From these bolts there is another 3 meters to the left to the next twin bolts(that you saw from the rapell start). use these for the 8 pitch.
8. traverse into the corner(left), then up. As pass a slab area outeside a "bush" you will find the next stance.
Then it is the last pich and you are up!

Enjoy the route:)
Reidar Ursin - 07/Dec/08

We climbed the route in February 09, and there are now more bolts than when I did the route 8 years ago, with nearly every stance sporting double abseil rings, with the exception of the stance at the end of the pitch into the cave (top of pitch 6).

Also on pitch 6, it is better to start from the top of the boulder. I have done this pitch two ways now, and the best by far is to go up the wavy wall directly to a small cave at 15m. Clip the bolt at the top of this cave and then step down and traverse immediately right with a long reach to exit from the wall. Excellent climbing at 5+. Here there is an insitue rope sling round some crumbly rock, possible belay, but I continued up and left into the big cave to reach the stance that is used for the abseil. Care needed with rope over loose rock.
Stewart Muir - 12/Mar/09

Great route - 3 stars for me! Thanks for the comment about big hexes - taking them makes protection in the dihedrals and chimneys really comfortable! For me 2nd and final pitch are 5 at least! Pity that the second pitch is a little bit polished.
Jakub Botwicz - 25/Mar/10

Just a couple of things to add:

The bolts on this route are definately well spaced and a rack would be WELL advised.

Pitch 6 is the approach to the large cave. On approaching the smaller cave below, move right. Climbing left of the small cave (as I did) involves quite a strenuous move of around 6a.

Pitch 7: From the belay point at the bottom left of the large cave, you can reach out to the ab point on the face. We simply lowered each other down onto the ledge below/left, rather than set up an abseil.

Completed the climb in just under 4 hours, in very hot and humid conditions.
Jon Keeley - 17/May/11

Completed this route on 23 March 2012 in about five and a half hours including walk off. A brilliant route and worth 3* in my opinion. Shared stances with a few friendly gulls. Full rack of kit recomended. The move right from the small cave for me was the crux . !! Fantastic mountain experience. Lovely varied route and well recomended. Enjoy !!
dale - 25/Mar/12

Great route,
went straight for the small cave at pitch 6 and thought the move to the right out of there the best on the climb.
Approx 6 hours including the walk off.
Fantastic day.
dale - 14/Oct/12

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