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A magnificent route which is of the same calibre as Costa Blanca, or even better, some say. It follows a very steep and direct line up the centre of the face to reach a fine position high on the wall. A wire or two may be needed for the section shared with Diedro UBSA which also contains some loose rock.
1) & 2) 4+, 45m. As for Diedro UBSA.
3) 5+, 15m. Continue up the corner, but step right and climb up as far as a sloping ledge. Belay at the right-hand end of this.
4) 6b, 28m. Climb straight up the vertical rubble on some weird and wonderful holds (scary) and then smoother rock above.
5) 6b, 30m. Another long pitch leads left, then back right and up an area of flowstone. Juggy climbing reaches a crack which leads to a belay shared with Gómez-Cano.
6) 6c, 20m. Up a short, steep arete or the groove to the left.
7) 6a, 30m. Move left awkwardly, then climb the groove and crack on the left to a good stance (strenuous).
8) 7a, 30m. Climb the overhanging face above via the crack on the right with one hard move (or aid). Continue on steep rock via a crack then swing left to a niche. Exit right then climb a groove and slab. Scramble up easy rock to the summit.
FA. Salvador Guerola, Emilio Perales, Juan Terradez, Jaime Arviza 1991
Better than Costa Blanca, esp in the lower pitches. Bolts so close together on the "7a" pitch that you could hand over hand up the quick draws. Dont blow the R to L travers higher up by taking a line too high; drop down after clipping the bolt, then go L
kevin stephens - 08/Jan/05
if you've done Costa Blanca - this is a must do! once you have done the first two pitches, the climbing gets better and better. You could aid the top pitch as the bolts are so close together. Fantastic line
Pudz - 09/Jan/06
As good as Costa Blanca, that is very good!
Found tricky the end of P4, easy the arete on P6.
The 7a is not hard for the grade.
elvio - 11/Jan/11
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