Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping diagonal line through the series of huge honeycomb caves high on the wall. Take a small rack of gear including some foot slings for the aid pitch. Some of the fixed gear is old but there are some new bolts and all the belays are new and equipped for abseil. Start below a diagonal crack.
A brilliant route. 6a+ doesn't really do it justice or tell the full story. Think multi-pitch E2 5c with a strenuous aid pitch low down and the technical crux right at the top (just when you are getting tired - and remember you are probably carrying a sack!
Agree with Dave. I got to the top, got knackered and pulled on a peg (Just as well its there!) . Dont take a sack just a water bottle!
Nov 08. All belays fully bolted and equipped for abseil descent. Bolts now protect all the hard moves on each pitch. Aid pitch is pretty straightforward, don't need slings or etriers. Pitches 5 and 6 can be combined into one long 45m pitch of 3+, so the whole route is 8 pitches.
The climb is semi-equipped with parabolts, the sort that don´t rust. All belays are double parabolts with rings. I´d say the upper pitches are very well protected, as is the whole climb. Classic climb, took us 7 1/2hrs - the climb was a bit beyond me, and I did plenty of sling tugging, including leading the crux of the penultimate pitch on aid. Full rack inc. full set of friends, nuts, 15 draws taken.