Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 108
Low in the grade. From halfway up Swimmer's Chimney squirm rightwards past the arete and climb the wall by a hard move, things then ease. A bouldery direct start up right side of the lower arete is Better Dead Than Smeg, E6 6c.
Bit of traditional back and footing to get you started,strange bouldery moves around onto the face, then lovely long moves up the face - classic and varied - very well protected - more like E1 5c
Getting on to the face is by far the hardest part. From the large jammed block in the chimney, you can arrange good gear in the arete, which is above the crux moves onto the face (and makes it E1 perhaps?)
Didn't it always used to be E1?
Getting onto the face definitely didn't feel like the crux to me. It was the few moves after that with a semi-mantleshelf that provided the entertainment. Get good gear in quick and then be ready for a long reach. A romp from there on. A really enjoyable climb and worth 3 stars I reckon for its variety.
Absolute classic! Worth 3 stars for sure. E2 5c fair i reckon.
A brilliant climb. Very well protected and with a nice mantelshelf after attaining the face.
E1 5c I thought. Tough moves, but as the man says, the gear is above your head. Under rated at 1*.
Where EXACTLY does the line go i.e. at which point does one move around the arete. some seem to do this with the break and gear at foot level, whilts others move round with the break and gear a little above hand level. People who do the former all seem to say very soft for the grade. People who do the latter think pretty solid at E2 5c (although well-protected). Which was the original line?
In response to Dave, you HAND traverse the break with gear by your nose.