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E2. A great route up the right-hand side of the pillar. Take a rack.
1) 5+, 44m. Start as for Pilar de Finestrat and climb the ramp and grooves to the top of a pinnacle. Move right to belay.
1a) 7a+, 30m. A direct start, though the bolts are well-spaced.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb out right, over a bulge, then up a slab to a groove. Follow the groove to a ledge and bolt belay.
3) 6a+, 45m. Up to a slab then the arete. At the last bolt move right to a ledge (belay?). The slab and wall above lead to a cave.
4) 5+, 18m. The pocketed wall leads up a slab to a ledge.
5) 5+, 25m. A groove in the arete leads to the abseil station.
FA. R.Edwards, S.Perez 1994. Direct Start R.Edwards 1994
Great route - deserves three stars in my opinion.
On the first pitch, there is no fixed belay on top of the pinnacle. There is a double bolt belay five metres lower and to the right. Traverse right before the final bit of the steep corner to gain it.
Pitch 3) The old description was much better- up the corner (two bolts) step left, go up the slab (two bolts) step right to a ledge then straight up (thread and bolt).
Pitch 4) goes up the left side of the cave - didn't find too many pockets on that pitch.
Heike - 03/Jan/06
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