<< Espolón Central Directa < The Edward's Finish | Nueva Edición > Edge of Time >>
E2. A three pitch route which can lead on to bigger things. Start below a left-sloping ramp, below a large overhang high up.
1) 4, 20m. Climb the ramp to a good ledge.
2) 6a, 40m. Climb the steep wall to a shallow groove (pegs). Enter the groove on the right and climb the excellent crack to its top. Climb rightwards across slabs making for a cave high up. Thread and peg belay.
3) 6a, 40m. Climb the red groove. Near its top move right and climb the steep wall (threads) to reach less steep rock. Follow the cracks on the right to reach the belays of Vía Julia.
Descent - Abseil off or continue up one of the routes above.
FA. Juan Marti, Pep Camarena 1976