<< Vía Julia < Sin Salida | Espolón Edwards > Viaje en el tiempo >>
E1. An old classic which follows the huge groove/corner in the centre of the South Face. Start below the long crack.
1) 3, 20m. A wall leads past a tree to a chimney/crack.
2) 6a, 35m. Follow the crack to a cave.
3) 5+, 25m. Climb up to the roof then onto the face on the left and up a small corner. Move right into a corner and spike belay.
4) 5, 20m. The corner above leads to the final chimneys.
5) 4+, 40m. Follow the chimney past 3 caves to a larger cave.
6) 4, 30m. Bridge the final chimney then climb the right wall to the ridge of Espolón Central.
FA. M.Angel, J.Luis, J.Carlos GarcÃa Gallego 1977
We enjoyed this adventure. Unrelenting chimneying, the middle four pitches seeming to be sustained at Alpine V+. For me the crux was pitch 3 where one ends up on a face on the left with a few pegs scattered about to show all the different lines that people (with pegs) had chosen to take. I found it hard to pick the best line, hard to protect and it certainly had that E1 feel.
Simon Brown - 05/Dec/13
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