The Gully Joke

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Skogul < Mean Streak  |  Terrace Crack > Bud >>


15m. Climb the flake left of the steep crack, place runners on the right then teeter out left and climb the wall on small hidden holds. Bold and historically undergraded.
FA. John Allen 1975

USER COMMENTS

Don't think it's E3 done years ago one of my 1st E2s gear gets further away but holds get better n better.
Matt - 18/May/05

Gear situation is a bit odd on this. Most natural set-up is to place an obvious side-runner to protect the hard and easily fluffable shallow groove above the cave, then once on the ledge stuff the thin crack full of small but good wires. Makes a steady E2 this way. Groove is nasty and the crux, top wall is delightful and makes it 2 stars overall.
Fiend - 25/May/06

Quite dirty at the moment. The moves from out of the cave are reachy and I found them quite hard, definately the tech crux for me. The top is easier but bolder. Small friends go in the top break but aren't bomber. E3 but no soft touch.
Ropeboy - 19/Nov/06

One I've overlooked for years. Easy technically but fairly serious as the gear in top break is not great. A fall from the dirty finish onto the small wires in the right-hand crack wouldn't be pretty. Take a black tricam as well the small cams you hope are going to fit in the top break.
Ian Milward - 15/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 24
    hard E4 0 of 8
    E4 0 of 8
    easy E4 0 of 8
    hard E3 1 of 8
    E3 4 of 8
    easy E3 0 of 8
    hard E2 3 of 8
    E2 0 of 8
    easy E2 0 of 8
    hard 6a 0 of 8
    6a 0 of 8
    easy 6a 0 of 8
    hard 5c 1 of 8
    5c 7 of 8
    easy 5c 0 of 8
    hard 5b 0 of 8
    5b 0 of 8
    easy 5b 0 of 8
    3 Stars 0 of 8
    2 Stars 7 of 8
    1 Star 1 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

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