Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 469
18m. Mild for HVS but excellent. Grovel onto the jammed block, place a few Friends and make the obvious move onto the slab (easier said than done). If perplexed, try a right-facing, leg-cocking layback. Finish up the slab and elegant crack above.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
Wow. What a route. A grovel onto the block and thuggy over the lip, pad up the slab and jam the final crack. Bring Friends to protect the lip, and make sure no-one's watching when you make the move! I did have to ask a couple of people not to watch before I did my beached whale impression with added huffing and puffing sound effects!
it's a cracker!
I was a bit disappointed there are basically only 2 moves on the route which is a bit disjointed and lacks unity, very pleasant but not worth 3 stars.
Did it a while back, cracking move over the lip. Only thing, when I repeat it I'll wear elbow pads as all my weight went through my elbow as I rotated. F--k it hurt!
What a great route. Worth every bit of three stars. I notice the picture here has as many people laughing and pointing at the leader as I had at on my lead. I did get a round of applause when I rocked over onto the slab witha great roar though. Loved it. Great jamming on the top crack, too.
A great variety of climbing in sutch a short space! Mantels, heel hooks, laybacks, padding up a slab and then the final, glorious jamming crack! Wow! Definately worth three stars!
Be careful with friends at the crux - a guy i knew fell off the crux onto gear, tried again, fell off again but the gear ripped and he decked and ended up in hospital.
Why is there a picture of some gumby top roping this classic 3 star route?The crux move has gear right next to you, surely - VS 5a
The only downside of this route is you can't watch your second wriggle about helplessly on the block because they're under the lip. He he he. Go and do it!
the perfect climb to show of the advantages of height to a climber. surmounting the block is a doddle if you can reach the lip whilst jamming the left hand corner of the block.
By the time I seconded it the crowd of laughing climbers had dissipated fortunately. However there were still a few of my mates around, and I lost all dignity on the crux! I ended up mantling it, but only by singing American Pie.
did this as my first HVS lead, and idn't find it that bad. the crux move was surprisingly easy - feels like it will never go, but once you start pulling you can't stop!
I found the "crux" fairly easy. Getting on to the block was a bugger though! Absolutely brilliant route all the same.
I agrre with these last two comments from Rich and Dave. Like Rich says once you start pulling through you just get catapulted up onto the top. Such a great move that I thought that getting onto the block and reaching the break was the crux!!! Had to use my arse and fiddle around for ages to reach up to the break.
No wonder I agree with Dave F. Just realised that you are my climbing partner, d'oh!!!
just put your right foot by your right ear - a lot easier than it sounds. really good fun, I think the audience adds to this enjoyment. gets the adrenaline going! worthwhile
Agreeing with a previous comment re making sure the cam on the lip is good. Led Tody's 3/8, but had a spectacular fall. As I tried the crux, my belayer took in all the slack. Struggling, I went back to the block, but there was not enough slack for me to reach it, so hung momentarily on the cam, then it popped. Falling, I badly caught my backside on the corner of the block, tipping me upside down, ending up very bruised, sprained ankle, rope burned, grazed and sore, with my head about 3ft from the deck, hanging on a bomb proof hex at the back of the block. Had a hat on, but wished it was on my backside. I don't think there will be any permanent injuries.
Wonderful crux move. I did it without a heel hook which I found gives you too much to do in lifting your CofG over the lip. I used a lay away to the left against a jam in the break and my right fingers on the vertical edge of the flake above the lip, my foot on a smear below the lip. Completed a mantel once my shoulders were over the lip. Lovely friction on the slab above.
Led this route back in April for my second HVS lead. Soft touch if you're tall.
Once saw someone do the route who had obviously been told about the heel hook - only problem was they used the wrong leg - very entertaining and ups the grade somewhat!
Fun climbing at froggatt... (the block 4b)(the lip 4c) lead to a severe top out,a good fun climb with bomber pro all the way.Very very good fun and enjoyable, consider it like the onlookers do....a bit of a laugh. One of the few climbs ive found were been a short ass helps (getting onto the block)ripe for a down grade VS4c
Not sure about the "bommber pro all the way". The pro at the lip is marginal unless you have a blind faith in cams in flared cracks. Definately not 4c to get over the lip as well! Good route.
My first HVS many years back. A baying crowd adds incentive!
Tip top move, over the lip. The ultimate rock over. The top crack provides some very well protected fun moves, particularly the top.
I reckon it's about VS 5a if your 6'4'' like me. It led Quien Sabe? two weeks ago which felt much harder. I climbed onto the block from the left with a nice reachy move. Great route.
How did Tody's Wall lead Quien Sabe? ?!
Giggled all the way up, even as I fell off the lip on my first attempt. Grinned like a kid with an ice cream when i got to the top.
Awesome route still one of my favourite's ever first hvs and being 6'2'' i found the first move pretty easy kinda layback heel hook but as i hate jamming found the top crack sooooo pumpy so HVS just for that if i had more stamina i would say VS cos it's so well protected.
First HVS lead.. loved the route, but I agree if you're not a tall climber getting onto the block is as much as a pain as making the crux move, I think it was probably my messiest climbing move made to date.
My second HVS lead. LOVED IT!! Getting onto the block - I think being a shorty (5'2") is an advantage - you don't get pushed off by the overhang. Standing up is a challenge though! Pulling over the lip - agree with other comments it feels like it will never go but if you keep cranking it is a gorgeous rock over! I then found the unprotected slab and the evil crack the scariest bits!! Swore at my belayer all the way but loved every minute of it!!
My first HVS lead.
One of my favourite routes. I love every bit of it.
Great route of mixed styles. Excellent.
Did this as my second HVS years ago. You can get a good rest when you are on top of the block if you jam a foot in the horizontal crack. You could also try left or right of the top crack using side runners in it.
I was fortunate to second this route so all the sweat was taken out of it,or so i thought until i got on the block and took three attempts to heel hook onto the slab,but once the move was done it felt so good, very enjoyable ,tiptoe to the crack , a delight to climb.Can't wait to do again.
Superb route, tricky crux with a great crack to finish, shame the crack isnt longer really
Bosh! Face rubbing nonsense to mount the block then a minute or two of ickle cam fiddling as I worked myself up to THE move. Then in a flash it was over. Real easy HVS if you can get your heel on and rock baby!
saw you do the move duz,I was one of the old gits sat eating flap jacks and drinking coffee at the foot of heathers wall.you made it look so easy and smooth in one, anyone who has done it knows its not."right on rock jock." well led. second time for me and next time i'm down there will do again.
Liked it a lot, then I am naturally biased as my first HVS ever. That said, thought it was a good route, three-in-one really: A thuggy move over the lip, a little slab padding and then a nice crack to finsih off the outing.
Worth HVS and 5a for the awkward sketchy block mantle and the rock-over that follows. I also 'benefited' from a boisterous audience!! thought the top crack was tough but then i can't jam for toffee...
A route everyone should have a go at - it's just such a laugh!
Did this last night in the fading light and tested both my cam at the lip and my second by taking a tumble off the crux. Both held and the added adrenelin got me over the crux, though more than slightly unstylishly!
Entertaining route, packs a lot in. VS 5a though
Was my second HVS lead, found the crux move easy, I'm not that tall but if your short and flexible you should do the move easier than any tall guy.I thought the hardest move was getting onto the block. 3 star route!
My first lead of HVS and was a good choice given the good protection of the crux with 2 cams under the lip. Gaining the block was easy even though i'm short and the finishing crack is a nice finish!!
A route I'd wanted to do since seeing someone lead it on my first trip to Froggatt eight months ago. As a 5'1" shorty I couldn't reach the side pull and ended up mantling it with my right hand once halfway up. Then lovely slab padding followed by an easy jamming crack (and I can't even jam very well!)
I've done this a couple of times now.
Being a short veggie I found getting on the block easy but the crux was a very powerful move as it was way above my head. The crack finish is a dream. Loved it.
Not HVS!!! This is soft for VS, I reckon! Gear everywhere and all acceptable. One interesting move through the lip. The upper crack is pleasent is in a great position.
My first HVS lead, loved it. Got on the block using reach power on the left and the rockover felt fine for my length of leg - must be a morpho move though? Joyous padding up the slab and mad grinning up the jamming crack. Just superb. Definitely an easy HVS, but if you think this is too easy at the grade, get to Shorn Cliff and compare it to any of the HVS Musketeer Wall climbs!
There is a real smile factor about this climb. Nice push over the block and a great run up the last crack.