Broken Crack

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Corner Crack < Left Broken  |  Sickle Buttress > Sickle Buttress Direct >>

The lovely jamming-crack is best approached by a swift layback. If you think this HVS you need to smarten your jamming!
FA. Joe Brown 1948


Soloed - seemed very straight forward compared with say Nowanda at Gardoms. Perhaps VS 5a.
Mark Stevenson - 10/May/02

Only HVS if you cant jam, in which case you picked the wrong route.
Bob Dulieu - 26/Jul/02

Offers some nice laybacking at the bottom, great jams in the middle, and at the top... ? A good crux!
Nick Smith - 30/May/03

Tried this last year and wimped off because the start was too scary. This time I borrowed a Friend 5 (or 6?) and the start seemed no problem. The jamming is no harder than The File, and the layback is no harder than Cosmic Crack. Definitely only 4c. Just not sure whether VS / HVS.
David Jones - 10/Jun/03

Why has this route gone up to HVS 5a. Learn to jam, it's standard VS. If you look back enough guidebooks you'll see that it used to be given 4b!
Michael Hood - 28/Nov/04

A commiting layback to start leads to a romp on good jams. no harder than hawks nest crack.
I got a friend 4 in the top of the starting offwidth by standing on tip toes.
Jon Greengrass - 10/Mar/05

VS is probably right, on a par with the File.
Tim Waterhouse - 19/Sep/06

Think HVS 5a due to more than one 5a excellent protection though, hard layback move at the bottom and top crack straight forward for me as a I a proffient jammer. Harder than Todys Wall and Pedestal Crack. But definately a lot harder than Hawks nest crack which is easy in my opinion.
Michael - 03/Jan/07

Tricky to say, but I'd go for HVS as it's fairly sustained compared to Tody's and Chequers Buttress
AlanM - 11/Jun/07

I found the top of this preety tricky, i'd go for mild HVS!
Adam Moroz - 13/Dec/07

The copy of my Rockfax says HVS 5a and this was not the first error in the guide on this morning [see Scarper's Triangle]. I fairly romped up so my vote definately goes for VS 5a and well worth losing some skin for.
albie niedojadlo - 09/Jun/08

Found some cunningness on the starting layback - kneebars! Managed to have more rests than I made moves, and removes the committing-ness and bold-ness (as you can rest to place gear as soon as you can reach it). After that it's great jamming, enjoyed it a lot more than I expected, though it was just a filler in route and always just walked past it before, but I was wrong and it's very good.
cider nut - 12/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 123
    hard HVS 0 of 16
    HVS 0 of 16
    easy HVS 9 of 16
    hard VS 6 of 16
    VS 1 of 16
    easy VS 0 of 16
    hard HS 0 of 16
    HS 0 of 16
    easy HS 0 of 16
    hard 5b 0 of 55
    5b 0 of 55
    easy 5b 1 of 55
    hard 5a 2 of 55
    5a 24 of 55
    easy 5a 14 of 55
    hard 4c 14 of 55
    4c 0 of 55
    easy 4c 0 of 55
    3 Stars 6 of 52
    2 Stars 37 of 52
    1 Star 7 of 52
    0 Stars 2 of 52
    Bag of ..... 0 of 52

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