Broken CrackRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 123
Adjacent Routes
10m. The jamming crack is best approached by a swift layback. USER COMMENTS
Soloed - seemed very straight forward compared with say Nowanda at Gardoms. Perhaps VS 5a.
Only HVS if you cant jam, in which case you picked the wrong route.
Offers some nice laybacking at the bottom, great jams in the middle, and at the top... ? A good crux!
Tried this last year and wimped off because the start was too scary. This time I borrowed a Friend 5 (or 6?) and the start seemed no problem. The jamming is no harder than The File, and the layback is no harder than Cosmic Crack. Definitely only 4c. Just not sure whether VS / HVS.
Why has this route gone up to HVS 5a. Learn to jam, it's standard VS. If you look back enough guidebooks you'll see that it used to be given 4b!
A commiting layback to start leads to a romp on good jams. no harder than hawks nest crack.
VS is probably right, on a par with the File.
Think HVS 5a due to more than one 5a excellent protection though, hard layback move at the bottom and top crack straight forward for me as a I a proffient jammer. Harder than Todys Wall and Pedestal Crack. But definately a lot harder than Hawks nest crack which is easy in my opinion.
Tricky to say, but I'd go for HVS as it's fairly sustained compared to Tody's and Chequers Buttress
I found the top of this preety tricky, i'd go for mild HVS!
The copy of my Rockfax says HVS 5a and this was not the first error in the guide on this morning [see Scarper's Triangle]. I fairly romped up so my vote definately goes for VS 5a and well worth losing some skin for.
Found some cunningness on the starting layback - kneebars! Managed to have more rests than I made moves, and removes the committing-ness and bold-ness (as you can rest to place gear as soon as you can reach it). After that it's great jamming, enjoyed it a lot more than I expected, though it was just a filler in route and always just walked past it before, but I was wrong and it's very good. |