Golden Yardstick Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Pupilla < Manx  |  Lobo > Tut's Anomalous >>


A superb second pitch follows the hanging rib right of Manx.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb onto a pedestal then continue up the groove to a bizarre stance in a unique cave.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb up right then traverse left above the cave to access the right wall of the hanging prow. Follow this with interest to a possible stance and finish up the wide crack of Manx over on the left.
FA. Tom Proctor, Al Evans, Keith Myhill 1976

USER COMMENTS

Scrapy first pitch, superb moves for most of the second (though possibly only 4c), and a scrapy finish.
Chris the Tall - 18/May/04

Pitch 2 has unusually fingery climbing for VS in a very exposed position. Superb !

As with most routes here, it can easily be tackled in one pitch unless you want the moral support for the first step over onto the slab.
GrahamD - 31/Jan/05

Actually the time has come for the facts about this route to be known. Tom Proctor led none of this climb. The main pitch was led by Keith Myhill, the rest by me.
The name in fact comes from a response to Keith's criticism of Drummonds sky hook activities,
"Dont be silly Mr Myhill, its not your hill, you do not hold the yardstick"
The Golden comes from the light cast on the climb late in the day. Tom was a god in those days and people just assumed evereybody who climbed with him was just along for the ride, but this is Keith's route, I was the bit player and Tom was just along for the ride.
Al Evans - 24/May/07

Cracking route, grade is certainly right at VS 5a, but it certainly deserves 3 stars.
Rob Cole - 31/May/09

A truly excellent second pitch. Fingery, exposed and a little committing (but not too much). Fabulous outing after work mid summer. VS 5a seems about right to me and I can't see why this doesn't deserve 3 stars too.
Matt Pigden - 03/Aug/14

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 88
    hard HVS 0 of 30
    HVS 0 of 30
    easy HVS 2 of 30
    hard VS 5 of 30
    VS 23 of 30
    easy VS 0 of 30
    hard HS 0 of 30
    HS 0 of 30
    easy HS 0 of 30
    hard 5b 0 of 30
    5b 0 of 30
    easy 5b 0 of 30
    hard 5a 0 of 30
    5a 22 of 30
    easy 5a 3 of 30
    hard 4c 5 of 30
    4c 0 of 30
    easy 4c 0 of 30
    3 Stars 13 of 28
    2 Stars 12 of 28
    1 Star 3 of 28
    0 Stars 0 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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