Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
Climb the tough crack to polished ledges and follow them out to the right arete and an easier finish up a shallow groove.
The voting thing only goes up to Hard VDiff. But the old guide has this route as Hard Severe and having climbed it yesterday I'd agree - certainly at least Severe. Also, I voted 0 stars by mistake, it won't let me correct it so subtract one from 0 stars and add 1 to 1 star!
All of my rope on this climb! 12m on the route and 38m trying to find something to belay off!
As far as the belay goes then the horizontal break by the ledge just below the cliff top contains excellent friend and medium sized hex placements.
This route is most definitely under-graded. Would have graded it at least HVD. The traverse and right hand arete is a VDiff but not before that.
Its a S 4a in my book.
It's at least a HVD, some nice moves but awkward
Went up Sickle Buttress Direct (VS) and expected a walkover for a vdiff start. Didn't get it... I see it's now rated as easy Severe here - feels about right for the first section.
Nice line on this for a short route. Easy to protect so not as bold as some other Severe-graded routes (Allen's Slab for example), but still warrants the S4a grade in my view.