Sphynx

2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Clash of Arms < Stolen Jewel  |  Climacteric > Cataclysm >>

1) 4b, 22m. Start up Lynx but where it starts to trend left move out right and climb a groove and rib to a stance and tree belay.

2) 5a, 18m. Climb the groove on the left then step left (ancient ring-peg and not much else) and make a short traverse and tricky mantelshelf to enter a wide crack. Finish more easily up this.
FA. Steve Read, Will Mcloughlin 1963

USER COMMENTS

On a damp Nov day, the second pitch felt hard for 4c. I attempted to continue up the crack but retreated and faced the slippery mantelshelf like a man. Almost chickened out again but eventually committed and hauled up. Tough in the damp.
DrGav - 08/Nov/04

May have been off line, but the "move out right and climb a groove" description should really mention the rose bushes you have to plow through...

Top pitch very scary, arguably worth HVS, especially in the dark...
Steven McDonald - 19/Jul/06

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 25
    hard HVS 0 of 13
    HVS 0 of 13
    easy HVS 5 of 13
    hard VS 4 of 13
    VS 4 of 13
    easy VS 0 of 13
    hard HS 0 of 13
    HS 0 of 13
    easy HS 0 of 13
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 1 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    hard 4c 0 of 1
    4c 0 of 1
    easy 4c 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 11
    2 Stars 8 of 11
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