Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 8
A right-hand version of Catastrophe Grooves sees a lot less traffic.</br>1) 4b, 20m. Climb a wide crack then the wall past bushes.</br>2) 5a, 18m. Continue up the wide flake-crack to its end then head up the short wall to finish as for Catastrophe Grooves.
Tried this route again following your description-previously climbed it starting 2m right of Catastrophe grooves-it seemed to fit the existing description in the old guide but did not think it worth including in the new-however,following the new description led us up a short crack starting from same place as Cat. grooves then inmmediately back into the main groove of Cat. groove.(it did not seem feasible to go right at the top of the short crack)-We remain a little confused!
the upper pitch is worthwhile if you have done Catastrophe Grooves a few times perhaps a little bold for HVS. The description seems fine to me
The first pitch can be climbed more or less following the line shown in the new guide (which does not seem to be the same as for the old 1987 guide) but this is dirty and rather loose. Much better would be to start up pitch one of Lyon Route or Coyote Buttress and then move left (starting up Coyote Buttress would give a two star route).