Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 11
Two long and interesting pitches up the left edge of the buttress make this route worth doing. Some of the rock needs care. Start at a flaky groove in the centre of the buttress.</br>1) 4c, 22m. Climb a crack and groove to a ledge. Continue up to an overlap, traverse left (easier if you stay low), then climb the shallow groove (hard to enter - crux) and arete above to a small ledge. There is some dubious rock.</br>2) 4b, 26m. Climb the totty chimney/crack around left of the arete, then step right and follow the long crack on good holds and in a great position all the way to the top.
Although I seconded the first pitch, and I am a fairly confident VS leader, both I and the leader found the traverse to be very fine balanced and utterly unprotect able, allowing a disastrous pendulum swing back onto the initial grove. Suggest HVS 5a.
To do the 1st pitch at VS you need to traverse at low level below the reaching the obvious overlap. Traversing at a high level under the overlap and moving into the groove is a grade harder.