Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 1
30m. The tall rib once gave a devious trad route which then became defunct when a huge flake came off it. It was reclimbed as a magnificent and more direct 7b+ sport route. The bolts have now been removed leaving it as a redundant unclimbed line. Not in current guidebook.
This is not a defunct route! It was originally climbed with the super direct (thin crack) start to Lime Street, stepping out onto the left rib as soon as possible and still does at E4. Keeping on the right hand side of the rib gives some good hard moves protected by small wires and 2 pegs at 6b.
The pegs have been removed, but there is excellent if slightly spaced gear on the upper wall anyway. Maybe E5...
This is definitely not a defunct route. Whenever I have done it I have started up the curving groove to the left of Limestreetís direct start, then moved into Limestreet for a few metres before moving back left and climbing the upper wall. The gear is bomber; small wires. Not E5, pretty soft for E4 I thought.