Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 36
One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished).
Hmmmm. An E1 5b with a "1) 5c, 28m. Climb the slanting groove" first pitch?? I think 5c is fair but it's not too bad. I seem to remember fingery and pretty good.
Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade.
Without the second of the old pegs (lost long ago) the 'difficult moves up into the main groove' are very poorly protected. A sly runner in Lone Tree Edge provides some comfort - without this I don't think that the route is E1.
I've done the route quite a few times, most recently in 2002. I have to admit when leading I've always used the good side runner in Lone Tree Edge. This I think actually forces you to miss the 5c crux move (which I remember doing once when seconding). So I would say E1 5b with the siderunner (probably E2 5c without but I'm not really qualified to comment).
The start is a little bold (a good rock1) but not hugely dangerous, after that it felt like hvs, and all too short because the groove is superb. A great route but low end E1 in my humble opinion.
There is now a peg just below the groove which does help somewhat though you do have to negotiate the crux (sensibly protected by the usual side runner) before you can clip it. Perhaps the second best E1 in the Peak? (George being the best)
Pretty easy for 5c. I've led this route at least 3 times but never with a siderunner. This makes for quite bold climbing up to the groove but I don't think it's E2