Babylon

2 Stars
Technical
Loose
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Immaculate Deception < Surplomb  |  Sparkle in the Rain > Jericho Wall >>


A fine line and stout at the grade, with good climbing when dry and a nightmare when damp, as it usually is. Climb the groove throughout (care with loose blocks) passing a tree then the crucial bulge (bristling with old rotten pegs) towards the top.
FA. Derek Carnell, W.Jackson (aid) 1960

USER COMMENTS

Needs a very long dry period. There is a lot of mud in the first 40 ft. Very worthwhile though
Budge - 10/Sep/04

You can't see it from the ground due to tree cover, but the crux is quite a hefty roof. without the overhang it would be a dirty VS, but with it!

Jesus, those pegs on the overhang are extremely rusty and look ready to break. I noted the broken one above, after I'd past it.
The overhang looks harder than it actually is, but you will need to trust the worrying pegs. Simply for that I would give it E1 (maybe HVS with good pegs).
Paul - 25/Jul/05

did this route today...it was thoroughly dry after all the hot weather, and spot on at a good HVS. there's no need to rely on the pegs, the lower one can be backed up, and there are good friend placements once you've made a move or two up. get on it now whilst it's dry!
martin k - 11/Jun/06

Climbed on 21/6/10
Was dry apart from a small amount of dampness in lower cracks.
The section above the roof was dangerously loose. I seconded it and trundled 2 large blocks off. Both came off very easily with my hands and both would have caused significant injury to anyone underneath. After the bad winter it seems that there may well be a lot more loose rock than previously. TAKE CARE!
Alex Elsworth - 23/Jun/10

There does appear to have been a recent rockfall just to the right ... it's unclear if it affects Babylon itself.
Chris Parson - 15/May/11

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 0 of 2
    easy E1 0 of 2
    hard HVS 1 of 2
    HVS 0 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard VS 1 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 0 of 2
    hard 5c 0 of 2
    5c 0 of 2
    easy 5c 0 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 1 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 1 of 2
    5a 0 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    3 Stars 0 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 2 of 2
    0 Stars 0 of 2
    Bag of ..... 0 of 2

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