Gangue Grooves Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Excavator < Pothole Wall  |  Euromess > Overhanging Wall >>


Excellent; sustained and varied despite its ugly appearance. Start right of the corner of Pothole Wall and trend right then left to reach a vague crack (the same point can be reached from further right as well). Climb the crack up black rock studded with minerals then traverse right across the slab above, stepping down at its end and finishing up a steep groove.
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (some aid) 1964

USER COMMENTS

Excellent indeed and worth three stars therefore. Better than it looks.
BobH - 18/Aug/04

Not sure where the 5b move (the start?) is but this climb is superb throughout. Highly recommended.
drcorbasisgod - 16/Sep/06

Done it today. Some good climbing in a slightly wandering route. I didn't find the start hard.
2 stars maybe.
richard - 14/Apr/07

As aesthetically ugly and utterly unappealing as is usual for Peak limestone, but a rather good, substantial and lengthy route. A grade of E0 5a could be closer to the mark as there's no real crux, rather continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way.
Fiend - 04/Aug/08

Not sure about the "continuous 5a-ish climbing the whole way" (and certainly not sure what E0 means!). I found a 5b crux section at the start, a steep crack and then a straightforward slab and groove to finish. Good value HVS (though harder than quite a few E1s...)
roger whetton - 15/Jul/13

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