Allen's SlabRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 153
Adjacent Routes
16m. Start up Gamma but follow the diagonal crack boldly out right - spaced gear - to a heathery ledge. Finish up the juggy wall just left to the next crack (Trapeze Direct). USER COMMENTS
I have seen a lot of leaders wobble their way up this one!, its not hard but there ain't much in the way of inspiring gear, if this was your first severe lead you might panick a bit.
It is tricky when you traverse it! .. Great route
Ref Mark's comment, it was my first S lead 6 years ago! Led it again yesterday: 3 runners, one in Gamma, one at the end of the sloping crack and one at the end of the traverse just before the final moves to gain the top. (Note: attempts to place other runners seem to result in shredded skin and much blood - it's not hard so just enjoy it! Excellent route!
pretty scary route this one and i was only seconding! Just be careful placing your feet on the traverse as theres not a lot to stand and little protection until u finish the travers. Friends then protect the finish.
A relly nice route. I think the foot traverse is not too hard, with plenty for feet, there's just no gear till the end of it. A good 'head' climb. Much better, from the seconds point of view, to use half ropes so there is some protection for the traverse.
My first Severe lead. Easy start and then a deep breath to go out accross the traverse. Nice route if you like tip-toeing. Nice intro to severe for the more competant.
upper end of severe for that traverse, definitely
Really good route for playing with your head. Traverse not difficult, but feels a little precarious (and maybe a little polished), and somewhat awkward to protect and so feels slightly run out and exposed. Well worth doing.
Sweet route this- shame about the antique chipping. Managed to protect the traverse by mashing in a copperhead (only joking).
This was my first 'S' lead !! Absolutley brilliant fun. Found it reasonably easy even tho my 2 climbing partners were crying with laughter at something else, thankfully! A bit thin for gear in the middle section but keep goin for the letter box on the rightof the traverse.
HS 4a would better reflect the grade in my opinion a bit run out to be severe with the hard moves well above the gear. Must feel very bold if not comfortable at the grade.
Great climb, and an excellent intro to the grade (severe). Protection across the traverse is minimal, but I managed to bunch a couple of reasonable wires in a horizontal break. Possibly facing a big swing if you fall, which I nearly did! Balance required. |