Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 191
16m. A bold and intimidating route which is often soloed, although there is gear just below half-height. From the corner trend left to a ledge (low Friend runners to the left) step back right, then climb the wall on small flakes until things ease.
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Loved it! MMMM! Just off vertical so not pumpy, and its all there all the way, just small but positive crimps, one or two smears but nothing scary at all...made me very proud! gonna do it lots!! mmmm
Had the chance to second Max up this one. I agree, a very good climb. Nothing too scary (so long as you're comfortable with 5b moves way above your gear). But then it's easy to say that when you're seconding ;-) Nice one Max!
Don't know where "Usually soloed or top-roped" comes from, i would say it is usually lead.
Usually led in my experience
It worth leading it, the gear at half-height is sufficient for the crux, and you can get more just before the top (where the rock can be friable)
The gear just about protects the crux, so definitely worth leading.
The arete all the way is sweet despite being escapable at various points. Bottom section is fun, the section above the gear is pretty involving and certainly eye opening! E3 5c seems reasonable - more fun than Armageddon!! **
First E2 lead. Thought crux to be the long reach off the higher flake, although the crimpy move off the ledge is thinner. At my stage, brilliant for the 'heady' rather than the 'physical' or 'technical' aspect.
Yeah i'll admit it i top roped it,but it was a piss wet through day and i still managed the direct start up the arete (with lots of slipping and sliding. Definately going back for the lead.
Excellent route, I thought the crux was leaving the ledge but there are a few hard pulls after. It's all over fairly quickly though - unless you are foolish enough to step out onto the good foothold on the arete (like I did) where you will then realise that you have to go back and make one more tricky move to safety, well above the gear!
The arete (almost!) all the way is brilliant, but chickened out of the 3m section above ledge, which looked desparate and rarely climbed (and it was spitting with rain - poor excuse, I know). i.e. From ledge, did 2 moves up BE and stepped left onto good foothold), Is it really only '5c', Birkby? On sight, the arete with small detour above ledge still worth E3 (5c) IMO, as the lower arete is unprotected and committing.
My first E2 this side of the hills, all I remember is it being fairy easy for E2.
A great climb. I fell from two meters above the ledge and managed to land on it standing up - am really glad as i didn't want to 'test' the gear.
I thought the trickiest bit was gaining the ledge from the corner. The moves from the ledge were an absolute joy - balancey and technical with gear that i suspect would be just good enough (nut and cams).
I thought 5a/5b to start the traverse, hard 5b off the ledge then very scary 5a above that - bit heart in mouth! Lovely though. Definitely hardest of the 3 E2s I've done.
Spectacular! One of my favourite grit routes. Chock full of awesome moves and really makes you feel like a legend running it out above the gear.
The direct start up the arete is a lovely piece of climbing, whether you carry on at E3 or no. If 'bouldering', the reversal of the traverse is fun :) Gear good, seen more folks lead it than solo.
Low grade E2, but a wonderful experience of trusting smaller ledges for feet. 5b to get off the ledge, 5a to get on to it and bold 5a higher.
is it true a climber fell off soloing when a hold broke and died ? thats what my mate says but he likes to tell storys to put me off
Yes, Paul Williams. The route is okay to lead with good cams on arete at foot level.