Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
22m. Climb rightwards up the fine face, with fierce moves to reach and pass the small overlap. Continue aiming to the right of the hanging groove high on the wall. Excellent. Not in current guidebook.
Question - does this start purely up the face (Rockfax diagram), or up the adjacent groove and then the face at the second bolt (BMC diagram)??
The line of the diagram in the Rockfax guide starts at exactly the same point as the Gary's line in the BMC guide and then is pretty similar above that. The RF description would perhaps be clearer if it mentioned the little groove at the start but I doubt that anyone will get lost on this one. I suggest that you climb it in whichever way you want.
Try not to pull left of the big flatie at the overlap or you find an uber balancy move on micro holds to go right and get to the next clip. A quality route, nearly 3 stars.
Great technical climbing and a good test of your route-reading skills!
Found this way harder than either 'crinoid smile' or 'fossil'. Is it a height thing?
I agree with the last comment having "pulled left on the big flatie" and finding the "uber balancy move on micro holds" It actually seems that aiming for obvious big holds on this route ( which usually helps!) can make it harder
this is marvellous/fiendish technical wall climbing a must do route for anyone visiting the quarry
There is now a seriously dodgy black flake where you move slightly rightwards above the little overlap around half height. It can be avoided with care. If I get time soon I'll ab down and sort it.
Superb route, and yes there is a cul-de-sac to be avoided if you pull up left off the "big flattie" at the overlap. I had to reverse this move (but you do get a hands-off rest!)
A route of 2 halves: the 1st half hard, the 2nd half not so hard. At the overlap step right and pull over its righthand end into a groove.