Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 398
The final Froggatt classic and very photogenic. Climb the slippery ramp then the side-wall diagonally leftwards to a fat wire. Make a barn-door move left to the huge jug on the arete, then meander up this to a spectacular finish. Easier for the tall.
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Searching for the jug on the arete (...just stretch a little further) is breathtaking. Wonderful climb on suberb rock
One of the best HVS's on grit! Once established on the arete just savour that exposure :-)
In my opinion, the best classic HVS I've done! (other contenders I've done include Valkyrie, overhanging groove, great western....) However I think this decision could be down to the fact that its never too strenuous and you don't have to jam. The move out to the arete is awesome and you couldn't wish for better protection for it. Then the moves up the arete are easier but in a fantastic position.
Stunning route. Not too strenuous and a series of wonderfully balancy moves lead to the arete. Certainly the best grit HVS I've led.
Can't think how it could get much better. An essential grit route.
would make a great first HVS; great holds, gear and position, I loved it. do yourself a favour and don't toprope it - its not as scary or hard as it looks. after the first move on the traverse your in jug city until the top.
Excellent route but I found it quite hard. Maybe it's because I'm short of reach? Once you get that jug though.....mmmmmm!
I found reaching for the arete an all or nothing move. Luckily an 'all' move for me this time.
i cheated and first did it as a second, removing the rocks etc as i went up but.... i never did find that big hold around the corner and managed to mdo by staying on the same face that i started on . does this make the climb harder or easier.
At 6' 1" the reach was easy the gear was bomber, felt like VS 4c. Awesome route still.
Didn't know there was a bloody great jug til after I'd made the move
In reply to Iggy_B:
Just be posotive and the good holds will come
i agree that this climb feels more like vs 4c. it's still a great climb & i love the move onto the arete -once you're there just walk up the ladder!
Vs 4c?! You've gotta be joking! Definitely felt like hard HVS 5a to me. Also, it's given 5b in the BMC Stanage Guide. I reckon soft touch 5b rather than hard 5a.
i gotta admit it actually seems to get harder every time i do it!!! hvs 5a
I have to say for grading issues that if you asked me to define a grit HVS I would say this is about spot on.
Great route. I'm with Jon on this one - felt a lot easier than VS 4c, but I am 6'3". I didn't find the jug, but there's a huge sloper there that you can see, so I used that. Quality route!
Oops, meant felt a lot easier than HVS 5a. Silly me!
what a tip-top route. Not particularly strenous, well protected, fabulous moves.
Hello, I just did this route and had a bit of an epic on it - the move out to the arete was tricky for me. I am about 5'3'' (or maybe less) and had to move out to the arete in 2 parts! At one stage, I was only hanging on to a pebble, and had to hold my breath as I delicately made my way to the edge. Definitely a route I will remember for a long time!
My second when I led it isn't the tallest person in the world, and he had to do some silly things with pebbles to get there. Looked pretty knarly actually!
Oi Jacko, who are you calling a shortar*e?
Took a whipper of this today, I already had the arete ok on a sloper and could see the jug higher up but no way of getting there without dynoing... I got my hand on the edge of it but not quite in it and couldn't hold it (glad of my helmet!)
Si - found myself in a similar sounding position. Found the trick was to toe hook the arete with your left foot and then reach up to the jug with your left hand - hats off for having the balls to dyno onsite tho! Top, top route - definitely in my top 5 HVSs
Fantastic route. I thought it was quite low in the grade.
best route ever exposure is ace and all the holds are positive nice balancey move unto the arete
Why didn't Brown get the FA on this? He couldn't have missed it as he did everything else in this area.
I lead it a few days ago and not being one into too much exposure was nervous but being 6'2" made life easier. I found a slow steady approach on the way out to the arete made the actual moves pretty easy i also toe hooked the arete and found that move really easy and as you pull onto the arete and go from staring at the rock to staring into thin air i let out a huge wail and then romped to the top!
Did this y'day and reckon the grade is probably between 4c and 5b depending on your reach - for me its hard 5a. I'm 5'6 with average ape index and i couldn't reach the arete but could reach a reasonable hold in the break up and left, then had to fully commit to a poor low side pull for the right to make the reach. Its then another slightly harder move if you can't reach straight to the bottom of the flake/jug of the good foothold. Top route tho!
Really great climb. I couldn't reach the jug so had to mess with the sloper, still, it feels better then what you leave behind! The exposure is ace.
I agree with alisoncairns, the grade of the crux varies enormously. As a 5'1" shortarse I had to do some funky moves using a pebble. 5b definitely for midgets!
Has no one else found the pocket around the arete, before you begin moving upwards then?
I like the way the leftwards ramp launches you out towards the arete, like an inverted ski jump. I'm 5'7" with long arms, could reach the crimpy sloper on the arete (although got quite pumped preparing myself for the balancy move across - kept trying to step back to shake out which is much harder so just did the move in the end), not sure if I could have reached the sidepull pocket jug beneath that as I didn't notice it until I'd done the move. Found the next move (up the arete) quite tricky as I'd covered the crucial side pull with a quickdraw, but once I found that it was easy enough to do the move up to the jug, then I could relax! Thought it was amusing that my belayer, who had been quite happy offering advice (no beta mind, lol) messed up the move across and asked for a tight rope ;)
Lovely route, but felt pretty easy for the grade, I'm 6'4", but didn't feel i was making big reaches really. Would certainly make a good first HVS, gear is bomber, nice steady balancy climbing.