Janker's Crack

1 Stars
Loose
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Chequers Buttress < Solomon's Crack  |  Janker's Groove > Janker's End >>


10m. The first crack in the wall to the right is approached by a crack and jammed block and is an awkward battle to enter.
FA. Joe Brown 1948

USER COMMENTS

Horrible moves to get past the block & into the groove....
chris j - 09/Apr/02

Quite tough for 4b but it is right grade .. there is nasty move involved!
Stephen Barker - 24/Jun/02

a nice little climb ,secure enough at the crux where you might spend ten minutes going through the options, of how to progress, not one for the tall i would imagine!
karl - 11/Jul/03

I thought it was a nice little route but ended up with a solid jam with my right hand on the crux yet my entire body was facing outwards with right foot on left arete and left foot on the slab to the right. Not sure if JB did it that way but it's a nice little route!
Iggy_B - 17/Mar/05

Finished this route with a few new bruises and a little less skin.
A couple of good resting spots but generally awkward, hard work and not a hugely enjoyable route.
haze01 - 02/Aug/05

This is a great fun route, anyone who doesn't like it, pah, I pity you. Swing onto the block by a funky juggy reach and heel-hook, rest in the chimney, and ease out into a prime jamming crack. Good line and solid 2 stars.
Fiend - 16/Feb/07

Some crazy moves as 'Fiend' says and very good gear
But there's no doubt, much harder than 4b.
I went on to lead Chequers Buttress after which was far easier.
In fact the E2s I've done this year have been easier.
richard - 28/Sep/07

Not too hard and a lot of fun. The move into the bottom of the crack was quite easy I thought and a few jams sort out the exit.
Matt1000 - 30/Sep/07

Can't remember exactly what I did to surmount the bulge, I just remember one minute (and several minutes before that) I was cursing a sore foot and failing to work out any possible solution to the moves, and next attempt I was suddently standing on top of the block having unexpectedly found a reasonably graceful solution. Involved a right foot smear just right of the right arete, something with hands, then left foot straight on the block. Then almost got helmet stuck, by standing up rapidly without realising the crack was a little too narrow for that.
cider nut - 12/Oct/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 37
    hard VS 0 of 11
    VS 0 of 11
    easy VS 1 of 11
    hard HS 6 of 11
    HS 4 of 11
    easy HS 0 of 11
    hard0 of 11
    0 of 11
    easy0 of 11
    hard 4c 0 of 11
    4c 0 of 11
    easy 4c 1 of 11
    hard 4b 5 of 11
    4b 5 of 11
    easy 4b 0 of 11
    hard 4a 0 of 11
    4a 0 of 11
    easy 4a 0 of 11
    3 Stars 2 of 15
    2 Stars 2 of 15
    1 Star 4 of 15
    0 Stars 7 of 15
    Bag of ..... 0 of 15

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.