Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 44
The right-hand of the grooves is approached from the previous climb and entered with difficulty and a bit of an udge. The direct start is f6B+ and needs a fist-crunching jam. It was Whillans' barmy idea though apparently he never completed it.
A very hard VS .. you need to be flexiable to do it.
a funny one this, both leader and second found the use of an arse jam helped on the crux!
Direct start is a class problem from a (natural) sitting start. Can lunge off a wide-handjam in the slot. Probably V4 6a but every move is 6a!
Did the direct start as a sit start, as in the Bouldering guide recommended and I find it one of the best problems in the grade far around. F6c, maybe it felt easy for me, but consider that I like fist cracks:)