Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
A bold climb up the thin flakes and sinuous cracks. The hard lower section has no gear but a side-runner in Moon Walk drops the grade a notch. Higher up, small cams protect.
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Big Ron climbed it without the side runners the same year as the first ascent according to one of the old peak supplements (the one with The Prow on the cover).
Not true I believe. Ron reported his own ascent in a short-lived climbing newspaper where he described taking ground sweeping falls (only possible with the side-runners - without he'd have decked out).
Not so sure Graham. I know Si Moore has fallen off this, as there is a mediocre cam in the break. This is most definatly on route. I used it on my ascent, but didnt think it would hold.
maybe ron lead it with siderunners first then did it without.
Regarding bonjoy's point above. The size of cam required in the top break wasn't available in the year of the first ascent!
You mean regarding Adam's point.
Double checked the 1983 Peak Supplement - Gary Gibson. Under the route description it says
Yes, I was aware of the comment in the supplement, but it was simply based on rumour, not evidence! The same rumour mill had Ron on-sighting Masters Edge and Ulysees! Although I was on the GB Committee at the time, the supplement was not widely circulated for comments. I only saw the comment re. Cool Moon when it was published. Its not a huge issue really, but having spent many 100's of hours researching first ascent details for the Peak Guides I am a bit of a pedent for things like this!
Does this actually start off the ground or the block on the left? I did it from the left where there is a good Wire placement. Better off not bothering with the Friend in the break...it pulls out.
Tom De Gay was the first person to do it without side runners.