Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 50
12m. One of the finest grit experiences. A tricky start gains a flake in the arete. This leads to a break, which needs packing with Friends, before the tasty finishing moves. Well worth attempting as a true ground-up, on-sight since commitment on the final move will be rewarded with success or flight-time.
My best grit experience so far
Easy to get in a twist if you get the hand sequence wrong on the runout - see photo in 1985 Derwent Grit guide for example.
If you get the sequence wrong its not too bad to swap hands in the pocket as long as you don't panic.
believe me the 85 derwent guide photo is the easiest sequence. works like a dream, no awkward matching, you get the top break before you have to step into the big pocket.
The low crux is definately the harder of the two cruxes. The top crux is not too hard just feels very commiting but the gear is good and by your feet.
Does what it says on the tin. Excellent line, excellent climbing, very committing. Lower crux is pretty easy....top crux is not that hard but feels highly unnerving at first. Took me a very, very long time to get used to the situation. Don't know about the wrong hand business, the hand I got in was the only one I could and it worked fine!
standard E4. nice climbing on decent holds. the sequence to felt quite obvious. rocking over into the pocket feels a bit spicy, but a v poor cam in the second little break gives some psychological help.