Directisima

2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Gallego-Carlos < Somnis  |  Teo > Efecto 2000 >>


1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 5+. A fine climb on good rock. The hardest climb on the wall for years, but now a popular trade route. The 2nd pitch is very long and the 3rd is short and steep. Finish up the slippery layback corner.
FA. M Gallego, C del Campo 1978

USER COMMENTS

I think more than me has fallen off this route...probably nearly 5, 6a+, 6b, 4 IMH.
Just askin' - 05/Jan/06

A lot better than it looks. I could not find the second belayso carried on for a long pitch with a 6a+crux at two thirds height where the belay should have been, except no ledge or anything. Ian found the next bit hard too about 6a+. Good balance climbing with lots of sharp holds.
william Oliver Hill - 12/Mar/08

In the area of the 2nd and 3rd pitches there's a sea of bolts so it's hard to get the right line. Here are the pitches we did:
1. 30m. 5. A sustained steep slab to a belay on the break between the olive tree of Somnis (below, left) and the flake/pillar of Teo.
2. 49m. 5+. We followed the old grey bolts, rather than the shiny ones, which led up slightly left to an area of grey rock which had fewer holds and was less rough than the brown stuff. Then continuing slightly rightwards to a red-painted bolt and so to a 2-bolt belay.
3. 15m. 6a. Terrific climbing on spaced holds.
4. 25m. 5. Up blocks, then a steep slippery corner to a sudden finish.
Simon Brown - 05/Nov/08

4 pitches not 5. Don't know where the 4+ bit comes from.
Jonathan Preston - 29/Nov/10

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