2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Buckle's Brother < Buckle's Crack  |  Dark Entries > Forbidden Planet >>

The cracks in the north-facing side-wall lead to a sloping shelf. Before you pump out, stretch awkwardly right and reach for the top, or go direct - rounded either way.
FA. John Allen 1972


worthwhile as a 1st E2. Shame it's so short really.
matt - 14/Jun/05

Surely this route is better if finished direct via long stretch to the top from undercuts. This is how 'on peak rock' describes it and then suggests resorting to slinking off right if you can't reach. I've only done it the long stretch method so can't compare. Easy for E2 either way though I guess - not that pumpy.
Steve Ramsden - 24/Feb/06

Sure, going straight up is probably more natural. However, the climbing going rightwards is quite nice and in that sense makes for a better route. It was also the way it was originally done.
John Gillott - 09/Jun/06

Very good moves , even though its short. The dog leg move is better and just about E2 5b/c. Straight up is slightly harder and more like E1 5c, but misses a good section.
Sishaw - 21/Jun/06

E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system.
mark20 - 04/Jul/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard E3 0 of 19
    E3 0 of 19
    easy E3 0 of 19
    hard E2 0 of 19
    E2 2 of 19
    easy E2 13 of 19
    hard E1 4 of 19
    E1 0 of 19
    easy E1 0 of 19
    hard 6a 0 of 18
    6a 0 of 18
    easy 6a 0 of 18
    hard 5c 0 of 18
    5c 6 of 18
    easy 5c 11 of 18
    hard 5b 1 of 18
    5b 0 of 18
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    3 Stars 0 of 18
    2 Stars 17 of 18
    1 Star 1 of 18
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