Two Pitch Route

2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Forbidden Planet < Apollo  |  The League of Gentleman > The Beer Hunter >>


1) 4c, 14m. Climb the left-hand crack (loose blocks) to ledges then traverse right to pass the arete to a comfortable stance. The first pitch of Apollo is just to the right and is better (5a)
2) 5a, 10m. Finish up the tough crack to a superb juggy exit.
FA. Joe Brown 1950

USER COMMENTS

Unless I am worse at jamming than I thought, the second pitch of this route is much, much harder than 4c - has a big hold fallen off from in the crack?
Goose - 15/Sep/03

Goose (in order): Possibly; harder i.e. 5a but not much much harder; no.
Fiend - 15/Sep/03

Mr Brown has a lot to answer for. Pitch 1 is naff and pitch 2 is hard! Bit contrived for me i'm afraid.
adam - 12/Jul/04

Easier than the File (Higgar), though the jams aren't quite as good. 4c, if you can jam. The wide crack on the first pitch is the crux. Eeeeeuugh.
Charlieeee - 16/Aug/04

I found the top section quite hard, although it was a cold wet day. Not to be underestimated!
Tom Chamberlain - 01/Sep/04

I agree with goose the top crack is never 4c! and yes it is a bit contrived and yes again the wide crack on the first pitch is very tough but the crack imediatelt to it's left is probably more like 4c.
Kev Hatrdwick - 28/Sep/04

take the belay at the arete rather than round the corner on the ledge, it helps the route flow a bit making it less like two separate routes cobbled together. top crack not for the first time vs-er me thinks!
karl - 28/Sep/04

The first pitch is wee! I don't know about the top one coz it started raining when I got there last night
MattG - 07/May/05

The top pitch is definitely harder than 4c, no question whatsoever.
Paul Phillips - 02/Jun/06

Ended first pitch at the arete to break it up a bit more which worked nicely. Agree that the second pitch is pretty nails, had to rest on gear for the first time ever after contracting a massive pump on the slopey crack. Not sure it's quite worth 2 stars, good but not really good.
stu - 20/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 4 of 10
    hard VS 2 of 10
    VS 4 of 10
    easy VS 0 of 10
    hard HS 0 of 10
    HS 0 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 0 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 1 of 2
    5a 1 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    3 Stars 2 of 10
    2 Stars 5 of 10
    1 Star 3 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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