Two Pitch Route

2 Stars
Loose
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Forbidden Planet < Apollo  |  The League of Gentleman > The Beer Hunter >>


Climb the left-hand crack (loose blocks) to ledges then traverse right to pass the arete to a comfortable stance (4c). Finish up the tough crack to a superb juggy exit. A better combination is to start up the lower cracks of The Beer Hunter and continue up the second pitch as above, dubbed Two Beers.
FA. Joe Brown 1950

USER COMMENTS

Unless I am worse at jamming than I thought, the second pitch of this route is much, much harder than 4c - has a big hold fallen off from in the crack?
Goose - 15/Sep/03

Goose (in order): Possibly; harder i.e. 5a but not much much harder; no.
Fiend - 15/Sep/03

Mr Brown has a lot to answer for. Pitch 1 is naff and pitch 2 is hard! Bit contrived for me i'm afraid.
adam - 12/Jul/04

Easier than the File (Higgar), though the jams aren't quite as good. 4c, if you can jam. The wide crack on the first pitch is the crux. Eeeeeuugh.
Charlieeee - 16/Aug/04

I found the top section quite hard, although it was a cold wet day. Not to be underestimated!
Tom Chamberlain - 01/Sep/04

I agree with goose the top crack is never 4c! and yes it is a bit contrived and yes again the wide crack on the first pitch is very tough but the crack imediatelt to it's left is probably more like 4c.
Kev Hatrdwick - 28/Sep/04

take the belay at the arete rather than round the corner on the ledge, it helps the route flow a bit making it less like two separate routes cobbled together. top crack not for the first time vs-er me thinks!
karl - 28/Sep/04

The first pitch is wee! I don't know about the top one coz it started raining when I got there last night
MattG - 07/May/05

The top pitch is definitely harder than 4c, no question whatsoever.
Paul Phillips - 02/Jun/06

Ended first pitch at the arete to break it up a bit more which worked nicely. Agree that the second pitch is pretty nails, had to rest on gear for the first time ever after contracting a massive pump on the slopey crack. Not sure it's quite worth 2 stars, good but not really good.
stu - 20/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 4 of 10
    hard VS 2 of 10
    VS 4 of 10
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    hard HS 0 of 10
    HS 0 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 0 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 1 of 2
    5a 1 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    3 Stars 2 of 10
    2 Stars 5 of 10
    1 Star 3 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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