Vía de Polop
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HVS. Start at the top of the slope, below a long overhang 10m up.
1) 5, 25m. Climb up to a short crack on the left and onto the slab. Trend right and then up to blocks below the roof. Traverse left to the end of the blocks and then up to a belay.
2) 3, 10m. Follow the shallow groove to a large ledge.
3) 4, 30m. The pillar on the right then move around into a cave.
4) 5+, 45m. Climb the wall on the right into a small cave. Climb left and up the narrow gully to a good ledge.
5) 5, 40m. Climb the short wall and overhanging groove above. Traverse right onto the slab and then up to a crack. Up this and the short walls above.
FA. R.Edwards, M.Esslinger 1999
We found it fell more naturally into four pitches, thus:
1)5, 35m. After the blocks, it seemed best just to carry on up and belay on the slanting rocky rake.
2)4, 25m. The gray pillar, as described.
3)5+, 40m. After the "narrow gully", it seemed best to carry on up easy vegetated ground to the bottom of the final pitch.
4)5+, 25m. There must be two ways of doing this after the overhanging groove. Either (as in the guide) traverse right and then up a crack or (me) move up the hanging corner on the left and then traverse right on a projecting block.
Altogether a good adventure with not a scrap of fixed gear.
Simon Brown - 09/Dec/09
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