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E4. A direct route, from which retreat would be difficult after pitch 3. Start in the middle of the face, just right of a ruined wall and below an overhanging crack.
1) 7a+, 35m. Climb into the crack from the right and follow this. Climb right onto the overhanging wall and up this trending rightwards to a hidden pocket on the right. Climb direct to a hole then move left to reach a steep, wide groove. Climb this to reach a belay on the right.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb the groove on the left and continue left to a slab. Climb this to a traverse line going left. Follow this to some small caves and climb through these to another larger cave.
3) 7a, 38m. Climb over the roof on the left and then straight up to a bolted flake. Climb straight up to the roof above (threads) over this and onto the ramp which is followed for a short way. Climb the wall direct to a small ledge and belay.
4) 6a, 35m. Climb left and then straight up the steep slab to a good ledge and belay.
5) 6a, 40m. Climb rightwards into a depression then left into a short groove. Go right to another groove and follow this finishing up a slab at the top.
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 1999