Taurus

2 Stars
Fluttery
 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Dust to Victory < Rock Dancer 2  |  Kfour > Yes to Dance >>

E2. A sustained route with solid but spaced protection. Start in a small recess with a slim groove on the left. Climb the groove then straight up to the steeper rock above. Climb left then back right before heading straight up the slab using good hidden holds. Aim for the groove in the middle of the headwall, up this then the wall on the right, to reach a ledge. Abseil off.
FA. R.Edwards, E.Edwards 1999

USER COMMENTS

This route certainly deserves a fluttery heart: do Rockdancer 2 instead! But which is the right line? The topo in the latest guidebook shows it veering off to the left for a bit about a third of the way up; that in the previous guide gives a more direct line.
C.E. Moreton - 11/Jan/06

Definately E2, not sure if the crux merits 5c, certainly very sustained 5b and even if fully bolted would certainly merit at least F6a+ (as it is there is absolutely no in-situ gear apart from the belay).

Vegetation makes it a bit awkward to get on to the route, but after that the route is fairly obvious, even if many of the holds aren't. Aim for the scoop below the bulge - this is the crux and I suspect a long reach helps. After that the route gradually eases but it's a long time before you can get a comfortable rest, by which time you'll be pretty gripped.

Worth a couple of stars, but the scrappy start probably puts people off and RD2 is both better and more amenable.
chris_moor - 14/Feb/08

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