Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
The arete is approached from the left. A tricky-to-place big cam protects the final difficult moves.
The top arete is class!
FA was more like 1990.
The climbing is steady but the landing is bad. The break will take 2 friend 4's if you like.
John K - What do you mean the FA was more like 1990? I did this route back in 1986 and I'm sure many others had done it prior to that.
I was talking to someone about this. John Kirk is first ascentionists brother so he must be alluding to something ! Apparently Paul used pre-placed stacked hexes on the FA which certainly doesnt invalidate the ascent and apparently Martin Boysen repeated it shortly after. BTW this all second hand info - anyone care to confirm?
The break is much more rounded than it appears from the ground and it is not easy to place the large friend. Reversing is hard too ! - I count myself lucky not to have broken a leg.
FA probably about 1984 with preplaced stacked hexes in the midway break. Paul then led it with big friend in about 1990.
ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on Hex 10. How the memory fades.