El Dorado

3 Stars
Pumpy
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Clive's Redoubt < Isla de encanta  |  Sombre > Müne >>


A brilliant climb on magnificent rock. Intimidating, but not that hard, most of the gear is fixed although some might find a small rack welcome.
1) 3, 15m. Make an easy rising traverse onto a sloping ledge.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the ledge, move out right until you are below a wide crack. Sprint up this to a hanging stance above.
3) 6a+, 30m. Climb steeply leftwards, then finish up the slab above, past a few bits of fixed gear, to the diagonal grassy break. Belay a long way up left along the sloping ledge.

USER COMMENTS

wonderful route, combining strenuous steep big crack climbing on pitch 1 with thin slab stuff above. Don't underestimate the approach to pitch 1: its a thin grade 4+ traverse with little protection apart from a frayed rope handrail! Recently rebolted, it would be nice if someone took a spanner with them to take out the old rusty hangers.
Derek Morton - 19/Oct/04

No need to take a rack with you on this now unless you are unnerved by the 12 ft between bolts.
A great line and now has three bolt belay at top of second pitch
chalkmaster - 21/Jan/05

Tranverse it easy, not likely to come off,
Set up the belay station if need be, before the steep crack.
Steep climb is quite pumpy try to do climb at start of day not at end or you may fry pretty quick.
Slab work after hanging belay is a nice way to end climb,
Unless you want wet rope remember to climb far left on diagonal ledge for abseile,
Al Bo - 05/Apr/05

Bolts seem a bit spaced when getting pumped and needing to clip, but nevertheless the route can be done with no nuts. Placed one nut on whole route, between traverse belay and first bolt.
Oli - 07/Apr/05

Exciting and very enjoyable route. Definitly worthwhile.

It is now reasonably well bolted so probably not as scary as E2.
Kyuzo - 09/Apr/05

Both pitches can be run together using 60m ropes making the route even better. Would not say it was E2 tho.
steve - 10/Jan/06

Fantastic, exposed route with bolts. Not be missed. Construction work made access a bit awkward, but it is possible to park car above last constructions on the seaside of the road, and to walk down to the beach to the side of the constructions without entering area of no access.
are strøm - 18/Apr/06

Great route as said, first pitch is the trad one, steep but juggy. Second is pretty much a clip up and a good change in style, being slabbier and more technical. I would rope up on traverse, not super easy as said
Chad Harrison - 24/Apr/06

Great route. A few cams makes the route less intimadating. They bolts were a bit spaced for me and the old insitu tat is looking a bit tired, dont bother with wires. There are bolts on the traverse in.
Shaw Brown - 24/Jan/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.