Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!</br>1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.</br>2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.</br>3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:</br>4) 5, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top.
Not Lucas Nocturnes.The name is Luces Nocturnas(night lights)
the arete pitches into and out of the cave on luces nocturnas variation had reasonable fixed pro for the full length, though the bolts weren't 'new'.
Great route, but both pitches can feel very hard when humid and slippy. The bolts on the arete and the nasty tat don't inspire confidence . Great position though and even the traverse pitch has it's moments!
It isn't clear where to traverse. Down at the water (like the line in the topo) what is unprotected or 5m higher up (like the photo in the guide). The topo and the description should be refined or the phgoto commented. At the moment there are a lot of fixed ropes in the traverse, probably from rescue actions.