Rowland's Journey to Xanadu

3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Le Galleon < Rowland's Promised Land  |  Journey to Xanadu > Kubla Khan >>


A fine, but hard, extension to MMT with some dramatically positioned pitches. The climbing is very committing and the route should only be undertaken by competent teams. Pitch 7 requires 6 SENPs. Start as for MMT.
1) to 3) 55m. As for MMT.
4) 4, 20m. From the belay, traverse left around a pillar and cross over onto the slab. Climb this to the next bay.
5) Abseil 25m. Enter the narrow cave and abseil from the thread until you are in the bay just above the sea.
6) 5, 30m. Climb around the left edge onto the seaward face and traverse left to a narrow cleft. If the sea is calm, make a delicate, low traverse, or if the sea is rough, take a slightly higher one. Either way you end up on the far side of the cleft below a steep crack-line.
7) 5, 20m. Climb the crack to the first cave. A good stance.
8) 6a+, 25m. Traverse out onto the left wall (ENP). Climb direct (ENP) to a small slab and follow the crack above and left to a ledge. Climb the steep wall above (ENP) to reach a good ledge. 3 ENP belay Not in current guidebook.

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